It's a Wonderful Life

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pistol Ridge

The Misadventures of Nabisco County, Jr.


3.
+0
0 votes

The X Files 5.6 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Erik Farley, Elke Breitbach in 1994
Length: 65ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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20 feet right of the pinnacle is a crack system with an X formation midway up. Climb to the X however you want then continue to the top via a wide crack.
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.33 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (12 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 5th, 2016

Comments

1
slacker said on June 18th, 2003
I have never been so scared on any thing of this grade before. Realy skews the mind.
2
WhereamI said on May 24th, 2005
I would give this route zero stars if the site would let me
3
ReachHigh said on October 16th, 2006
Take some big gear.
4
anticlmber said on March 25th, 2007
good climb. learn how to dirt grovel.
5
pigsteak said on September 1st, 2008
actually quite enjoyable, even on a 90 degree day. there are rap hangers on top.
6
redwards said on September 11th, 2013
Wide, weird, and dirty. No thanks.
7
MurphMan said on April 27th, 2015
This was my first "trad" climb (okay, so I was on top rope too) and I really liked it. Yes its dirty and a bit wide, but there's plenty of face moves if you aren't into crack. I thought it was fun and a great learning route due to the easy top rope set up on bolts. Also, it isn't just big gear...I placed a #4 nut and took a practice fall on it.
8
DrRockso said on May 26th, 2015
This climb would benefit from anchors on the face to avoid the horrendous top rope drag from the top out anchors. Would belay from top for now.
9
Anonymous said on July 25th, 2016
Fun climb! Would be three stars if not for the start, and the dirty crack at the top, but otherwise great off width crack! I don't think I placed anything smaller than a #1 C4, but can be climbed with a couple #3 and #4 sized pieces. Back cleaning is your friend.
10
Catawaba said on May 2nd, 2017
Added quicklinks to the anchors, hopefully they don't dissapear