good times on danger mouse. heads up on the second bolt its a bit of a run out and there is definate possability to deck out if you have too much line out. right next to triceratops so while your there you should def. do both.
little heady from first to second bolt, groundfall == :( that's life, fun climb, considerably harder than triceratops for those beginning leaders who are feeling frisky
Shorter climbers will find some moves a bit of a reach, but thoughtful. Large under-cling near the second and a dead-point at the end made for a fun climb.
Climbed (part of) the route on May 16. The 4th hanger was missing. Decided to down climb instead of going for the anchors.
Did not think the route was reachy.
I climbed the 5.7 adjacent but we set up top rope for a group to climb this. The 3rd or 4th bolt was missing so climber was in decking range, as of 10/11/09
Missing the third bolt assembly... nut and hanger missing, bolt still in place. Still possible to set a TR from Don't Feed the Triceratops if you traverse over.
the 3rd bolt is still missing a nut and hanger, fyi these are 1/2" bolts. sling a nut on the stud, will actually stay put quite well since the bolt is so fatty. this can easily be backed up with a 0.4 purple camalot to the right, or a few other cam placements in the vicinity. yeah the route setter should have definitely considered short people, sheesh. with good technique, underclings, and footwork, this is definitely a 5.8. the 2nd bolt is decking potential, but you are standing on a ledge to clip. this was a pretty similar trend in the 3 sport routes on this wall, decking potential from 2nd and 3rd bolts. POTENTIAL that is, there are VERY good stances to clip from.
I thought the crux was pretty hard, but I'm not that tall. I ended up dynoing to get the onsight after a few attempts to do it static. Later on top rope I found three different ways to do it static: 1: lock off your left arm very low on the jug and you might just be able to get your finger tips on the ledge above you (10A maybe). 2: go left and do a balancing act using plenty of footwork and one low handhold (5.9- maybe). 3: use the pocket with the crimp with your right arm, and the slopey pocket with your left, and throw for the ledge above. Doing it this way felt slightly harder than the crux on Marano which is now rated 5.10C.
I led this route yesterday, only to find some sketchy looking, rusty pieces of hardware connecting the chains to the hangers. I'd recommend taking along some quick links, attaching them to the hangers, and setting up your rap off of the links.
*Please type the spam-prevention code you see in the image above into the box below before submitting your comments.
Spray
Attempts
1 Go
2 Goes
3 Goes
4 Goes
5 Goes
6 Goes
7 Goes
8 Goes
9 Goes
10 Goes
11+ Goes
Unknown Goes
Date Sent
-
Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
Comments