COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Brass Gunkie

This route is located in the Southern Region at What About Bob Wall

Alternative Medicines

0 votes

No Sleep Till Campton 5.10b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Don Mcglone, Matt Tackett in 2005
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk left 70 feet from Dr Synchro until you reach a dip in the traill. This sport route starts when the trail starts back up hill and just above a low overhang. Balance your way to the roof, commit to the moves and be rewarded with a bomber hand jam. Pull the roof and continue to the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
vertical (1) crimpy (1) long (1) confusing (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.24 stars (70 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (67 votes)

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Submitted by: Rx2Climb
Date: Apr 1st, 2020

Submitted by: J-Ru
Date: Apr 30th, 2018

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 16th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Apr 30th, 2007


corduroy said on September 4th, 2006
enjoyable and rewarding climb
gladhander said on October 22nd, 2006
fantastic climb. actually 11 bolts
pigsteak said on June 3rd, 2007
my latest favorite in the SR......
ahab said on March 18th, 2008
If you pull the crux you'll be rewarded with nice jugs for a fun, ape-like move that leads on to an enjoyable finish. Loved it.
bcombs said on March 22nd, 2008
Dunno about 5 star. It could have ended at the roof and the quality would have gone up IMO.
BigRed said on April 28th, 2008
Cool move below the roof and flake.
Wolf said on July 12th, 2008
Cool route. Tough crux.
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2008
4th bolt is coming out. Right at a committing move - not a great situation for a fall....
Don McGlone said on November 7th, 2008
Thanks for the heads up about the bolt, man. Hopefully it just needs tightened, but if it needs replaced, I'll try to get to it ASAP.
Brentucky said on July 13th, 2009
This is one of my favorite 5.10's. Very cool climb.
Power2U said on October 4th, 2009
Even my friend Steep4me who hates slabs/vert. routed liked this one... that says a lot:)
AJM said on May 6th, 2011
loose 4th bolt. great climb
Lander said on June 6th, 2011
I thought this would be a slab but it's mostly iron edging with really fun moves and a nice view at the top. Four stars at least.
nik said on May 8th, 2012
so fun! takes some thought in a couple of places. scout out your path -- there are a couple of spots where you'll pull up and be confronted by completely blank rock (had to do some downclimbing, ha). sweet move to pull the roof!
rjackson said on November 11th, 2012
Great route for the 10 leader involving multiple styles. Mostly easy 10 climbing to a hard 10 crux. Quite enjoyable...
Rx2Climb said on April 1st, 2020
A fence lizard was chilling on the jug ledge left of the anchors when we climbed this. "Sup......" the lizard said.
KhaoticKlimber said on April 1st, 2020
Quick! Someone ask him why he was down there!
Rx2Climb said on April 2nd, 2020
We were down there last Thursday. We parked with no problem and climbed all day. When we walked out there was a notice on the truck and signs about the closures up all over. We were lucky enough to climb on the last day that PMRP was open. It was a beautiful day. : (
Anonymous said on April 3rd, 2020
It’s still open. Just hike/bike in and it’s all good. Saw a cpl cars the other day so, guessing they aren’t cracking too bad. One of them had out of state plates and no slashed tires so; looks like someone was all talk.
Anonymous said on April 3rd, 2020
Lee Co. does not want people coming in right now. Do the right thing. Stay at home.
Anonymous said on April 3rd, 2020
"just hike bike in and it's all good"?! WRONG The gorge is closed on National forest and coalition land. Please respect the local government and community: Don't climb in the gorge right now! This helps to protect the residents of Lee county and the healthcare professionals of KY as a whole by minimizing the rate at which COVID spreads.
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2020
Maybe if we stick to climbing evenings/nights when less people are out it would be okay?
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2020
That's only been approved for Roadside (GFNP) but ONLY if you dont sign the waiver or get a permit. Ask Ian Kirk, he's the one that got it pushed through after many many nights worth of screenshots. You just need to spray down the holds with bleach on your way down, bringing a whole new meaning to 'cleaning a route'.
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2020
Everyone saying "I won't get it from the rock" doesn't care that they may unknowingly spread to locals after stopping at Koops or the Shell Station. Coming in from out-of-town right now is Grade A, self-centered, sociopath douchebaggery.
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2020
If I repent at the church and bathe my hands in holy water they should be fine. At least biz pro was able to get some sends in, mask and gloves to boot.
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2020
yeah that bus pro.....i'm 100% sure he's a 100+ year old guy doing the birthday challenge, and not someone just updating their tick list.
businessprofessional said on April 9th, 2020
Oh yea, biz pro's sending for sure. I knew security would be tight, so i rode my bike down from Ohio. Stashed the ride, used the super sneaky secret approach, then began the point harvesting. Perfect time to get all the low-hanging fruit without having to wait in line or socialize. Perfect!
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2020
I mean, that’s the smartest plan and what I knew you were doing all along. Real responsible of you. If you’d like to trade 6ft belays, let a mofo know. I’ve got pegs on my bike if you want to bike pool down.