Brass Gunkie

This route is located in the Southern Region at What About Bob Wall

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21.
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No Sleep Till Campton 5.10b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Don Mcglone, Matt Tackett in 2005
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk left 70 feet from Dr Synchro until you reach a dip in the traill. This sport route starts when the trail starts back up hill and just above a low overhang. Balance your way to the roof, commit to the moves and be rewarded with a bomber hand jam. Pull the roof and continue to the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:
confusing (1) vertical (1) crimpy (1) long (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.23 stars (69 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (66 votes)

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Submitted by: J-Ru
Date: Apr 30th, 2018

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 16th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Apr 30th, 2007

Comments

1
corduroy said on September 4th, 2006
enjoyable and rewarding climb
2
gladhander said on October 22nd, 2006
fantastic climb. actually 11 bolts
3
pigsteak said on June 3rd, 2007
my latest favorite in the SR......
4
ahab said on March 18th, 2008
If you pull the crux you'll be rewarded with nice jugs for a fun, ape-like move that leads on to an enjoyable finish. Loved it.
5
bcombs said on March 21st, 2008
Dunno about 5 star. It could have ended at the roof and the quality would have gone up IMO.
6
BigRed said on April 27th, 2008
Cool move below the roof and flake.
7
Wolf said on July 11th, 2008
Cool route. Tough crux.
8
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2008
4th bolt is coming out. Right at a committing move - not a great situation for a fall....
9
Don McGlone said on November 7th, 2008
Thanks for the heads up about the bolt, man. Hopefully it just needs tightened, but if it needs replaced, I'll try to get to it ASAP.
10
Brentucky said on July 13th, 2009
This is one of my favorite 5.10's. Very cool climb.
11
Power2U said on October 4th, 2009
Even my friend Steep4me who hates slabs/vert. routed liked this one... that says a lot:)
12
AJM said on May 5th, 2011
loose 4th bolt. great climb
13
Lander said on June 5th, 2011
I thought this would be a slab but it's mostly iron edging with really fun moves and a nice view at the top. Four stars at least.
14
nik said on May 8th, 2012
so fun! takes some thought in a couple of places. scout out your path -- there are a couple of spots where you'll pull up and be confronted by completely blank rock (had to do some downclimbing, ha). sweet move to pull the roof!
15
rjackson said on November 11th, 2012
Great route for the 10 leader involving multiple styles. Mostly easy 10 climbing to a hard 10 crux. Quite enjoyable...