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No Sleep Till Campton

This route is located in the Southern Region at What About Bob Wall

 The Speed of Enzo

22.
+0
0 votes

Alternative Medicines 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Matt Tackett, Jeremy Egleston in 2005
Length: 75ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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25 feet left of No Sleep Till Campton. Long and enjoyable crack system. Shares anchors with No Sleep Till Campton.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.52 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (24 votes)

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Submitted by: jarrod1236
Date: Dec 16th, 2014

Submitted by: jarrod1236
Date: Dec 16th, 2014

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 1st, 2007

Comments

9 comments {add your own comments}
1
pigsteak said on June 10th, 2007
pretty cool route...do it if you are in the area....
2
michaelarmand said on October 9th, 2007
Great route, long and fun!
3
BigRed said on April 28th, 2008
nice irregular crack.
4
Wolf said on July 12th, 2008
Cool route. I loved the day-glo orange lichen.
5
Barnacle Ben said on July 13th, 2009
This climb was a perfect way to end the day. The setting sun luminates the orange rock, and the view from the top is great. Variety of moves throughout the crack. Just look out for wasps, especially if you're trying to remove a micronut placement right next to the wasps... As noted, the crack arches right over to the No Sleep anchors. You lower directly over the No Sleep route, so you can set up a TR or place draws for No Sleep pretty easily.
6
rjackson said on November 11th, 2012
Worth doing if you find yourself here with a rack, but I found it a rather odd climbing experience. The patina is fracturing in places, the stances are "almost" comfortable, movement is awkward at times and sharing anchors may be troublesome if there's a party on the sport line... But the orange lichen, a good view and the fact that you're plugging gear evens it out.
7
Spikeddem said on May 7th, 2014
I was able to get out a stuck piece of gear from this route today. Let me know some identifying information for the piece, and I'll get it back to ya.
8
Rollo said on March 27th, 2016
Pretty darn good for a red 7. Almost as good as G. I. , Shock and Awe, and Casual Viewing.... almost. 0
9
Smiles said on September 16th, 2019
Really enjoyed this route, grade seems right but it's a thought provoking climb... a good variety of differing styles... Protection was good and varied greatly, nuts cams,a wide range of sizes, I had a 6" and was glad of it but but you could do it without it. Great hot day destination. Also a good kid friendly route, my 8 year old sent this comfortably.