The Speed of Enzo

This route is located in the Southern Region at What About Bob Wall

Kindred Spirits


23.
+1
1 votes

Brothel Doc 5.11a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Matt Tackett, Amy Tackett,Jason Haas in 2006
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk left about 100 feet until you reach an overhanging featured arete where the trail heads sharply uphill. This line begins 15 feet left of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt and begin with a bouldery start and enjoy the tricky moves that follow. The first set of anchors are for Kindred Spirits, this sport line goes to the top.
Moves: unknown
Descent: anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.21 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (16 votes)

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Comments

1
RRO said on September 6th, 2006
fun bouldery start. someone get on this and let me know what the grade is. stick clip the first !
2
Artsay said on April 23rd, 2007
I thought this thing was harder than Bowling Pain left of it. Lots of lichen and crumblies.
3
ray said on April 23rd, 2007
I liked the moves but it should probably end at the first set of anchors before it turns into the game of "Grab the fuzzy holds and pull". I like the shark fin move down low. Cool.
4
RRO said on April 23rd, 2007
yeah, you all are more than likely the second team on it since it was sent last year. i tried to clean on it when we bolted it. i think most the routes on this side of the holler are going to get dirty quickly if they dont see traffic. the top anchors were in before terry put in the anchors to the trad climb, since they were up we left it the way it was. the moves down low are cool.
5
caribe said on May 5th, 2008
i loved this route. The vigorous start, the vertical feature and the reachy midsection all make for great movement.
6
tomdarch said on September 30th, 2008
About those "fuzzy holds" at the top - don't trust them. Over all, I really liked this route - chossiness is the big drawback. The rock was "clean" but parts aren't quite solid. A chip kicked out that changes the opening moves slightly, but a handful of rock pulled out on one guy on the way to the anchors. The view from up there is great, but lowering the anchors by two bolts wouldn't take anything away from the real meat of the route.
7
aranzadii said on March 20th, 2009
Great route, some rock still breaking at the top but not that much, and not so chossy. Definitely recomended
8
Power2U said on October 4th, 2009
I really enjoyed this... has cleaned up a bunch... plenty of chalk on it, except up high. I like that it finished up there.
9
Dhaulagiri said on June 1st, 2010
Cool climbing at the bottom but you start to forget how fun that was as you get higher up.
10
RRO said on June 1st, 2010
i may move the anchors down to the trad line anchors. need to go climb it again.
11
DonnyP said on December 3rd, 2010
This route must have cleaned up over time because it seemed of fairly high quality when I climbed it in October of 2010. The roof at the bottom is fun, and the rest of the climbing is quite enjoyable too.
12
Saxman said on September 23rd, 2011
Bottom crux stays wet after a rain. Save for a cold dry day.
13
Sco Bro said on April 29th, 2012
I loved every move on this route. Classic. Leave the anchors at the top.
14
Jeff said on November 11th, 2012
Textbook example of a route cleaning up. This thing is 4 star all day long! Great movement, keeps your attention, and its all there!
15
Wolf said on July 29th, 2013
This route is pretty rad.
16
mberrian said on August 6th, 2017
Fun route. Little dirty up too. Stays in shade all day, so nice summer route.