Cork Eye

This route is located in the Southern Region at Rival Wall

Days of Thunder


9.
+1
1 votes

Lobster Claw 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2006
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move a few feet right from the previous line to the next bolted line. Begin just right of a low hueco. Climb large pockets to reach the first bolt then precisely stab your way through tiny pockets to a breather near the top. Don't get too confident because you still have to make it to the chains.
Moves: unknown
Descent: chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:
bouldery (1) shady (1) pockets (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.5 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (23 votes)

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Submitted by: tazunemono
Date: Sep 26th, 2016

Submitted by: tazunemono
Date: Sep 26th, 2016

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 1st, 2006

Comments

1
pigsteak said on October 4th, 2006
no harder than 10c according to our esteemed Yasmeen....if you know the beta.
2
ray said on October 8th, 2006
Did I miss something at the top!!?? Damn. The holds disappear from the last bolt to the anchor.
3
pigsteak said on October 9th, 2006
ray, if only I could print your phone message tonight for all the world to see. I haven't laughed so hard in ages....(yes, you missed something at top.)
4
Yasmeen said on November 9th, 2006
Ray, the beta for the top is to have pigsteak hang a static line from the anchors for you to batman up.
5
JR said on March 6th, 2007
Way harder than Yosemite Sam Mr. Kipp.
6
SCIN said on March 6th, 2007
True dat.
7
Power2U said on March 26th, 2007
This thing has some real rockclimbing on it.. good stuff. The move at the top took a while to figure out but it's there, so did the low crux. You gotta have your game on to do this one, but I think the 11d is right on.
8
JR said on September 3rd, 2007
Power2U. I find it interesting that you have flashed two 12c's at the Solarium and red pointed 13's. You start talking about Lobster Claw, hinting at it being hard and having two cruxi(?). Then you try to sell the "11d is right on". I ain't buy'in it. Put it his way. When is the last time it took you 3 tries to do a 11? Tell the truth. ps. I kinda like the 11d grade. In fact, I miss calling The Gift at Long Wall 11d. 11d has mystique.
9
woman said on September 6th, 2007
Solution: Keep the 11d grade for mystique, but give out 12b points to those who have sent it. With two cruxes and moderate climbing in between, it fits RRG 12b criteria perfectly.
10
Anonymous said on September 6th, 2007
the d's of a grade should be hard. i think if you fuss about the grade it should deduct 290 points from your total score :) sorry woman
11
Anonymous said on September 6th, 2007
I'm not fussing until I send. :)
12
chriss said on March 21st, 2008
This line is a great find!! Way better than the line to the left, and harder. At 11d, this has to be the hardest at the grade, I would say 12a.
13
Libertine said on April 6th, 2009
You sure gotta keep your composure to do this with no chalk on it and a seeping slot. What an adventure it was to read this route. It reminds me what onsighting really is. Great climbing, thanks for putting it up.
14
vertical1 said on May 28th, 2010
The top crux wasn't bad, but couldn't figure out the middle one. Did some edges break off?
15
climb2core said on July 24th, 2011
After heavy rains and with 90 degree temps, this is not the climb to do. It was wet all over and the slot before the crux was a pond. Liking forward to trying this in better conditions.
16
Anonymous said on September 25th, 2016
Got on this route due to the beautiful pocketed face in a shady alcove, and was not disappointed! Well, maybe a little due to the wet pocket before the 1st crux. The rest of the route was pretty casual, except for the bit above the last bolt, which is for sure the "red point" crux! If you can pull hard on one small pocket, this is your route!