Amarillo Sunset - North 40 :: Red River Gorge Online Guide

Destined to be a classic. Start from a ledge just right of a large ravine. Move up through 65 feet of big pumping throws to big holds with excellent exposure. Save some gas to clip the anchors.

Please leave cleaning biner on bolt 4.

Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private

Steepness:
classic (2) beautiful (1) pumpy (1) exposed (1) fun (1) Add / Edit Tags

Steepness:

Quality Consensus

4.78 stars (134 votes)

Grade Consensus
5.11b (120 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Dec 21st, 2013

Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 6th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Sep 25th, 2013

Submitted by: ferris
Date: Jun 27th, 2013

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 18th, 2013

Submitted by: taristi
Date: Jun 14th, 2012

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Sep 23rd, 2010

Submitted by: pschu7
Date: Jun 3rd, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 12th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 1st, 2010

Submitted by: randomboulder
Date: Feb 5th, 2009

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 1st, 2007

Submitted by: Gaar
Date: Dec 21st, 2006

Submitted by: Gaar
Date: Dec 19th, 2006

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Oct 10th, 2006

Comments

35 comments {add your own comments}

redpointron said on August 28th, 2006

move over "fuzzy", there's a new 11b in town. an absolute must-do.

2tall said on September 3rd, 2006

Amazing route! Bound to be in a climbing mag sooner or later due to the aesthetic nature of the climb and the area. A blank wall with perfectly spaced mini huecos, this route couldn't be more perfect. GO CLIMB IT!

chriss said on September 5th, 2006

my favorite at the grade! Great climb. An easier, better version of dog leg.

JR said on October 16th, 2006

Why does it stop? Anchors seem to be in a odd spot.

pigsteak said on October 17th, 2006

jr, upon the recommmedation of several early ascensionists, the anchors were drop to stay consistent with the grad. if you look up, the old anchors were another 8 feet higher. rest assured, the original finish made this thing 12 plus, and took away from other 60 foot of climbing you just did. (there is still one bolt at the old anchors if you choose to continue on up.)

Gaar said on December 7th, 2006

I did not see a cleaing biner on it today!! AWSOME route!!! not short man approved, I'm 5'11 with a plus 1 index and was at full extension through the 3-5 bolts...Blew the anchors on the onsite, attempt, just go for it....ITS HUGE

dmw said on May 3rd, 2007

can't wait til this route stops spanking me! it is freakin' fun!

Yasmeen said on May 14th, 2007

While the reaches are long, you don't have to be Gaar's height to do this thing. I'm 5'6" and I didn't have to do a full on dyno on any of the moves. Really, really cool route, Kipp.

dyno_heaven said on May 23rd, 2007

yep, and I'm 6'2" and only had to do one full extension move =)

512OW said on June 18th, 2007

Nice job Kipp... sweet ass route

verticalturtle said on June 25th, 2007

No disagreement with the praise for this one - it's awsome! I will say that the moves felt fine at 5'9"

travelinyouth said on July 24th, 2007

Fantastic Line! Sweet crankin' in a sweet spot.... even comes equiped with your own private belay ledge!

Anonymous said on September 12th, 2007

I haven't red-pointed the route yet, but I can pull all the moves static and I'm 5'0."

der uber said on June 9th, 2008

one of the best.

maggie said on September 4th, 2008

i'm tall now!

whatahutch said on November 2nd, 2008

Finally got on this. Great route, I loved it. So my style. I swung through the bottle 2/3rd and wore myself out. Next time I will get the redpoint.

said on September 8th, 2009

Freaking Awesome route!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but at 5'4 i never had any full dynos....just big moves....also i think its one of the most beautiful climbs in the red.....Nice find Kipp!!!!

Brentucky said on November 9th, 2009

I may suck, but this route does not. I'm just glad I could FINALLY send the thing and give it the 5 stars it deserves!

caribe said on November 15th, 2009

Thanks Kipp. This thing is quite a ride!!!

THB said on March 26th, 2010

This is a good route, no doubt. But, it's not a 5-stay classic in my opinion... I think it looks cooler than it climbs. For me, the movement was straight forward and uninteresting. I can see how this would be completely different for a shorter person... but, I gave 1 star, to offset all of the 5-star votes (really, I think it's a 3-star, maybe 4-star route)

THB said on March 26th, 2010

*5-stay*... meant to say, 5-star... my bad. And, maybe my comment will get a lot of criticism, but I think there are better 5.11's in the gorge than this one.

Brentucky said on March 26th, 2010

THB, I say think what you want about a route, obviously no problems with that and all people prefer different things. However, I think you are stupid to vote a route 1 star right after saying you think it is a 3 or maybe 4 star route. Why are you trying to offset a grade consensus that is based on the masses? Are you the grand masster know-it-all or something?

ahab said on March 26th, 2010

i don't understand this line of thinking either. you see it on a lot of routes star/grade ratings. someone thinks it's off and feels like their opinion should be counted x4 to "bring it back in line". get over yourself and just vote the damn thing like you see it fer chrissake! people are dumb. btw, since i thought this was a fiver and it only got 4.87 stars, i hacked into the route database and gave it 10 stars. so there.

THB said on March 26th, 2010

point well taken... thanks for keeping my ego in check. i'll just call it as i see it... i removed my 1-star rating and replaced it with a 3-star rating...

Brentucky said on March 26th, 2010

Well damn THB, now how am I gonna get my own ego back in check, ya hater!? Perhaps I could go get smacked down by another one of Kipp's choss piles the same as this one did me. :-)

dustonian said on April 12th, 2010

awesome work Kipp. this route is truly one of a kind!

pigsteak said on October 10th, 2010

second to last hanger/bolt have been replaced. good to go.

yarrrrbian said on March 15th, 2011

Probably the only movement you'll find like it ever. Great climb!

iamrob said on May 31st, 2011

Much easier when you know where the holds are. use to think it was a 12. but i think 11b is good. idk. grades aren't important

Gnarla the Red said on September 4th, 2013

I'm 5'1" with 0 ape-index, and was able to do all the moves static, and redpointed 2nd try. Tall people just don't know how to get their feet up! Just wanted to let shorter folks know that this route is indeed approachable, despite stories of full-on dynos, and to say that this is an awesome route.

Mr_Funky_Shot said on March 18th, 2015

Does anybody use that mono-pocket? I did, and it helped eliminate an awkward hand switch.

lil_reggie said on June 28th, 2016

This is a lil Reggie route if there ever was one.

Anonymous said on June 29th, 2016

Make sure that you talk about yourself in third person next time, lil reggie

Anonymous said on June 30th, 2016

i want to offer hand jobs to all the photographers who posted porn shots of this so we can all fantasize about grasping the ineffable. the internet feels small.

lil_reggie said on July 2nd, 2016

lil Reggie will talk about himself in whatever way he deems fit, he don't need to be told. Make sure you post all your comments anonymously, lil b hole.

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Amarillo Sunset 5.11b (Sport) *****

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