9 1/2

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Arch

Ear Drops


2.
+0
0 votes

Double Stuff 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Jordan Garvey in 2006
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the route located just left of Ear Drops. Pitch 1: Start by moving through big ledges on steep terrain until you reach a picnic rest at the belay ledge. Bring up the second and contemplate the airy 2nd pitch. Pitch 2: Move left off of the ledge and use fun underclings and sidepulls to reach the chains. Don't forget to look out left while climbing, but looking down may not be for the faint of heart.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.5 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (5 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Feb 5th, 2007

Comments

1
512OW said on May 14th, 2007
Why are there 3 sets of anchors on this, like every 35 feet or so...?
2
goodguy said on June 2nd, 2007
The route is 2 pitches. The first set is for those only willing to do the short first pitch, the second set of anchors are up and left about 25ft. for those willing to do the second pitch, to bring the second up and get a much needed catch. As for the upper set I think that providing a way down is just common courtesy.
3
512OW said on June 2nd, 2007
Uhhh.....ok. So why end the first pitch in the middle of the face instead of where it really ends? If it's two pitches, make it two pitches.... instead of making it convenient "just in case". There are plenty of other 12's people can get on if they aren't willing to "really" finish a pitch.
4
512OW said on June 2nd, 2007
Not dissing your route, by any means. I like the idea of multipitch sport in the Red. It just seems like a similiar idea to putting an anchor at the last bolt of "Too Many Puppies" and calling it 11c, just in case people don't wanna do a 12. Unless its a Muir Valley rule... in which case I completely retract all statements...
5
goodguy said on June 3rd, 2007
The reason I added the low anchors is because when you go all the way to the next set of anchors it takes the rope up and over a large bulge (like the one in my pants) that creates excessive drag.(like the way redpointron dresses on Friday nights)
6
512OW said on July 2nd, 2007
1st pitch is good, albeit pretty dirty still. I broke off a few insignificant holds. The 2nd pitch has some pretty questionable rock. This would be better done as just the first pitch, and ignore the top. Though with decent runnering, there was no ropedrag on the top doing it all as one pitch....
7
512OW said on July 2nd, 2007
That may have come off wrong (I have a habit of that). What I meant was: This would DEFINITELY see more traffic if it were "advertised" as a one pitch 12a, and maybe even make the second pitch a whole different climb, ala L'ile au ciel. However, that second pitch is no L'ile au ciel... though the concept is coolish.
8
chriss said on July 9th, 2007
I lead clean to the second set of anchors and top roped the last pitch clean. The first pitch is fun and worth doing. The second pitch has some very poor rock quality. The first pitch gets all the stars, though the second pitch has great movement, maybe one star for the second pitch.
9
512OW said on July 9th, 2007
Pretty much same here... but I bailed on the second altogether... the points just weren't that important.... haha.
10
goodguy said on July 10th, 2007
Alright, so the rock up top needs some traffic, but it is all solid. There was no difference in rock quality as far as drilling is concerned. I hope that some day the roof above will go!
11
chriss said on July 10th, 2007
But as climbing is concerned there is a huge difference between the rock quality of the first and second pitch. I thought the top of the cliff was going to break off if I pulled to hard for the last two bolts (of the second pitch). Up high the rock quality is worse than that of crumblies. I would climb the first pitch again, but the second pitch is a do it once type of climb.
12
512OW said on July 10th, 2007
Agreed with chriss
13
SCIN said on July 10th, 2007
Court adjourned
14
512OW said on April 7th, 2009
Are people doing the top pitch of this? Has it cleaned up at all?
15
symardila said on June 15th, 2010
Be aware that at the beginning of the second pitch there is a bird nest in one big hold towards the right. Don't get scared like I did if while climbing the bird comes out flying away from your invasive presence.
16
DrRockso said on April 24th, 2017
Climbed in one pitch, rope drag wasn't bad with a shoulder length runner on the bolt after the first pitch anchor and the next anchor. Second pitch isn't great but the exposure to your left is pretty good. Potential to deck on the ledge during the second pitch runout, someone put a piece of gear in the runout. My partner recommends to clean on top rope!