Hiking Boot Highway

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Coyote Cliff

Buddhalicious


3.
+0
0 votes

Golden Road 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers in 2005
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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After passing the mossy rock garden you will soon encounter a sport route. This climb alone will be well worth the trip. It glows golden in the late afternoon sun and climbs up some great rock with plenty of fun moves. Stand in the giant hueco to clip the chains and enjoy the view.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
crimpy (1) vertical (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.44 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (13 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Nov 24th, 2006

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Oct 27th, 2006

Comments

1
Stewy911 said on November 5th, 2006
Excellent route. Tough start to moderate climbing, to an obvious blank section. After that its relly fun climbing on some cool holds. GET ON IT
2
Andrew said on June 28th, 2007
Super good route.
3
512OW said on August 31st, 2008
If you're shaky at the grade, and shorter than 5'10", save this one for the colder weather...
4
said on March 16th, 2010
I haven't been over to Coyote Cliff yet. Is this climb as slabby as it looks, or is it more of a face climb? Looks so awesome.
5
pawilkes said on March 16th, 2010
it's not slabby like smearing on small dishes but the crux has some thin balancey moves on small crimps.
6
dustonian said on March 23rd, 2013
Pretty classic with a burly crux
7
Aksama said on July 14th, 2013
As a 5'7" climber the crux of this felt extremely hard! Incredible climbing up top as well.
8
Rob Smith said on June 22nd, 2014
At 5'8", I had no problem with reach on this crux, even on a 90+ degree day in the sun. If you find the holds, then reach is not an issue. I'm guessing the route gets washed clean by rain. Outstanding technical and fun climbing.
9
shadow.ayala said on July 4th, 2014
wow, lovely route.
10
Chiyram said on April 12th, 2016
Awesome route! Technical climbing and a thin slab crux with rests everywhere, which is my only chance of sending anything rated 11d or harder.
11
vertical1 said on June 13th, 2016
I was on this yesterday, and at the blank section, I got an undercling, reached high to a couple crimps, and went up left hand to what looked like a formerly chalked up something and there was what looked like a fresh break. Without something above what I was on, there was no way I was getting to the good hold at the next bolt. Has anyone been on this recently and can verify if something important has broken. It seems to me but I could be wrong. I boulder V8/9 even on crimpy faces and I got shut down. BTW, I am 5'6".
12
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2016
Sorry Napolean, you gotta be 5'7" to climb this route, kinda sucks to be you, doesn't it?
13
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2016
Thanks for letting us you know boulder v8/9. Guess that doesn't translate well to on 12a crux.
14
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2016
Anonymous d-bags are being helpful as usual, I see. I haven't been on this recently - my memory from a few years ago was that the crux was tough but not outrageous for 12-. I am 5'10" though. Rock-climbing this thing in 90 degree weather has to be especially heinous.
15
Anonymous said on June 15th, 2016
helpful , aren't ya. "I'm quite a bit taller than you and the reachy crux was easier for me." Also bonus points for pointing out the hot weather conditions. thanks Capt Obvious , you'r about as useful as tits on a boar.
16
JR said on June 15th, 2016
At 5'8" I found no way to "static" the move. I think I used two ridged crimps and hopped to a good right hand hold. Hope this helps.
17
vertical1 said on June 15th, 2016
Thanks JR. Will try it again in the fall. Was also curious about the fact that there is an obvious break, and whether it mattered or not. Anonymous douche bags don't bother me. They always talk big.
18
Chiyram said on June 16th, 2016
When I was on this in April it didn't seem like anything was broken in the crux section, but I would be really surprised if any of the key holds did break, because they are tiny little things to start with. I'm 5.11 and still had to dynamically move to the jug above the crux.
19
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2016
turds are for kids