Golden Road

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Coyote Cliff


0 votes

Buddhalicious 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Karla Hancock, Jared Hancock in 2006
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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20 feet left of "Golden Road" is this fine climb. Slappin' and squeezin' the Buddha belly holds up high are sure to bring some good luck.
Moves: Slopers
Descent: Chain Anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

4 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (27 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Nov 25th, 2006

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Oct 28th, 2006


goodguy said on October 29th, 2006
Really tough heady finish. Hard through the 2nd and 3rd bolts as well. This would clean up to be a 3 star route if the start wasn't so iffy.
climbhigh said on November 4th, 2006
weird, fun technical moves but it has some serious ledge fall potential. not much you can do about it so just pay attention.
J-Rock said on November 5th, 2006
True, there is potential to hit a ledge, but the bolts were placed in such a way as to minimize that risk by protecting the hardest moves above the ledge. Still, it would be a good idea to be alert.
climbhigh said on November 5th, 2006
my post prob came across much harsher than i wanted it to. the climb has amzing moves and is blast to climb. i just wanted to post something about the ledge falls becasue the area will attract a lot moderate climbers and i would not want to be a new 10 leader on this one. the route is bolted as well as it can be, sometimes its just rock climbing and you have to deal with what nature gives you, ledge falls and all. good job on the route, i will be back out to climb it.
Sco Bro said on November 7th, 2006
There’s some detached rock that’s wedged into place in a right hand undercling/sidepull right before the last move to the anchor. Beware. I marked it with a chalk X. I tried to pull it out; it would wiggle around, but would not come out. It’s not huge, but is two separate pieces of rock that would put a hurting on your belayer. And if he/she were using an ATC. . .
Ascentionist said on November 7th, 2006
...then their helmet would have come in handy.
jlu said on April 6th, 2008
fyn shaky route... trust yourself not to barn door getting to the 4th bolt
Jeff said on November 9th, 2009
Great route, but with the ledge potential I was glad for the top rope.
EricDorsey said on January 13th, 2012
Ascentionist- no one bothers to wear a helmet when they climb in the red, you think they are going to wear one belaying? ha!
Chiyram said on April 11th, 2016
Great movement on this route. Ledge fall potential isn't to bad unless you're getting pumped. Hard moves are protected and you're coming off a no hands for the end.