Van der Waals goo (Open Project)

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

The Last Slow Draw


8.
-1
1 votes

Gym Jones Approved 5.11b (Sport) *

First Ascent: Barry Brolley, Craig Lubben, Mark Ryan, Jeff Colombo in 2007
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50ft right of Son of a Wanted Man. 2 Big roofs start this overhung climb moving through some crimps finishing on big moves to the anchors.
Does not get sun.
Descent: Fixe ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.84 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (27 votes)

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Submitted by: HMFIC
Date: Jan 16th, 2008

Submitted by: HMFIC
Date: Jan 16th, 2008

Comments

1
SCIN said on June 4th, 2007
Is anyone really projecting this thing or has the potential FA quit climbing?
2
pigsteak said on September 17th, 2007
whose project is this?
3
HMFIC said on January 16th, 2008
This route was bolted and abandoned by Craig Luebben in 2006. Rick asked Jeff, Mark and Barry to do the FA late 2007. It's now open.
4
bcombs said on December 29th, 2009
Just two star because of that start!
5
vertical1 said on July 6th, 2011
How could anyone give this chossy spider infested pile four stars. What four star route does this compare too? For that matter, what 3 star route does it even compare too?
6
eduard said on April 21st, 2014
Ate some dirt pulling the bottom roofs, but it's clean after. Has good jugs in all the right places.
7
Chiyram said on April 12th, 2015
Next time I get on this I'm going to bring a broom for the lower section and there is no reason thing should get 3 or 4 stars.
8
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2015
Its dirty and dangerous till the fourth bolt, but a lot of fun. Would climb again. Blew up the wall til the the move for the chains. The big move to the anchors negated by a hidden side pull on the right. How often do you get such easy and fun roofs?
9
Chiyram said on July 20th, 2016
Looking at my poorly written comment it looks like I'm saying this route sucked. What I meant to say, "there is no reason it should get 3 or 4 stars". Just needs some major cleaning. Fun climbing.
10
Chiyram said on July 20th, 2016
I'm failing... *Shouldn't be any reason it doesn't deserve more stars with cleaning... I give up...
11
Anonymous said on July 21st, 2016
and yet, no one cares