Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

Van der Waals goo (Open Project)


6.
+0
0 votes

Hoosierheights.com 5.11c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Greg Martin, Josh Thurston in 2006
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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30 feet left of Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship. Stick clip and start left of the first bolt. Climb up the steep juggy ledges through the first 5 bolts and enjoy a no hands rest. Once recovered, tackle the slightly overhanging but positive finish.
Descent: anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.58 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (27 votes)

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Comments

1
RRO said on January 3rd, 2007
have not saw or climbed route so nto sure of stars, josh ?
2
goodguy said on January 3rd, 2007
3 star route.
3
goodguy said on January 21st, 2007
just added 2 bolts yesterday so that brings the total to 10.
4
Power2U said on May 26th, 2007
Wow this is the worst climb on the wall! Pure dirt for the first 3/4 bolts, then moss and no real fun/memorable moves.
5
goodguy said on June 3rd, 2007
Wow, what have you contributed lately. Other than this comment for a route that is 3 months old and only seen 10 ascents, or in other words it might need some cleaning! (like Kipp's underwear after rapping of the Midnight Surf wall)
6
bcombs said on June 3rd, 2007
It was memorable for me, I ripped off a huge hold on the lower steep section. It caused me to punch myself in the face!
7
pawilkes said on April 19th, 2008
fun w/ big plates but still pretty dirty
8
endercore said on April 23rd, 2008
it is still pretty dirty- but not that bad of a climb. didn't have time/energy to clean so I left my draws on the wall. Will be back within the month for them. If you decide to remove them for any reason- just let me know so I can have them back. Karma's a bitch if you still draws!
9
endercore said on April 23rd, 2008
*steal draws. Sorry for the typo
10
Sco Bro said on June 21st, 2009
Fun route, and its not that dirty. If you want everything to be shiny clean and ticked up then stick to Roadside.
11
Anonymous said on August 7th, 2009
Why anyone decided to bolt this choss pile of a wall is beyond me. Watch out for loose rock, deadly spiders and wasps nests just below the anchors. Please be a little more picky when bolting in the Red!
12
dustonian said on December 9th, 2009
Agreed, this thing is kind of a pile and should probably be chopped in the interest of safety. Careful not to kill your belayer with loose blocks at the start and watch for wasps at the top.
13
goodguy said on December 9th, 2009
Well I guess I will come full circle with this development stuff and start removing lines I have put up. Sorry for the inconvenience that may have been caused by loose/dirty rock.
14
heavyc said on December 10th, 2009
hey, at least 33 people have climbed your route and at least 7 of them twice or more, I don't remember the route well but thanks for putting it up, if someone wants to complain (especially about wasps) maybe they should go climb in the gym instead
15
SCIN said on December 10th, 2009
Michelle and I like this route.
16
dustonian said on December 10th, 2009
Sorry to be harsh, I just feel like the start is dangerous for a sport route. I do plenty of dangerous climbing, just typically not on sport routes. Wasps are a non-issue really and difficult to avoid during summer months. I feel like A. given the popularity of this crag with beginning climbers, someone is eventually going to pull the wrong direction on the wrong block in the beginning and hurt themselves and/or their belayer, B. safety is a priority at Muir Valley given the access considerations, and C. given an adequate skill set, sport climbing by definition shouldn't be dangerous, and sport routes that are dangerous are usually poorly equipped or cleaned. I think this one falls mostly in the latter category as the bolts seems well-placed. The top has some fun moves after the ledge and is worthy enough, but I feel at a climbing area this good there is no need to bother equipping mediocre and/or dangerous lines. In any case, I do appreciate the time and effort I just think given the end result it would have been better spent elsewhere IMO. If this weren't a comment board on a climbing website, I wouldn't have said anything, but this seems like the right place to me.
17
anticlmber said on December 10th, 2009
all climbing is dangerous.
18
dustonian said on December 10th, 2009
That depends entirely on what type of climbing you're doing, how well-maintained your gear is (bolts included), & who you're climbing with. At a well-equipped, clean sport crag with a competent belayer, you're at more statistical risk eating bacon & eggs for breakfast and driving to the crag than you are climbing at it. If this is not the case then someone is doing something wrong--either you, your partner, or the route developer.
19
anticlmber said on December 10th, 2009
repeat, ALL climbing is dangerous
20
tcu said on December 10th, 2009
No Anti, not for the great Dustonian. He's bad ass, he's climbed all over...Yosemite, Black Canyon etc. Believe me I know, we had to listen to him SPRAY about it all over the crag one day.
21
dustonian said on December 10th, 2009
Um, never climbed in the Black Canyon and don't really like to talk about where I've been etc. Thanks for the personal attack though in a thread about rock climbing. I still maintain if sport climbing is dangerous for you--especially steep stuff--you're doing something wrong.
22
JR said on December 11th, 2009
Dustonian. You had me then you lost me. Let it go. Look at all the sends. Look at the stars people are giving it. Look how no one is agreeing with you. Look how Rick Weber has not swooped in and closed this "dangerous" route. Chances are this route embarrassed you in some way. It happens. Let's not make it worse by crying about it. Just give it no stars and move that rope bag on down the line.
23
dustonian said on December 11th, 2009
I gave it one star and 11a. The top is kinda fun for a bolt or two. Nothing embarrassing about the experience except having wasted my belayer's time. I just think the route is unnecessarily loose and dangerous for the Red, that's all.
24
pigsteak said on December 12th, 2009
dude, drop it. we get it. you hated it. but get on a dozen of the lines I have bolted if you really want to waste your life....but wait, all rock climbing is a waste of life, so either way your belayer loses. better advice is to quit climbing and find something meaningful like working at a homeless shelter. or better yet, take some time, go back and clean the route, put big X's on the supposedly loose blocks, and do the climbing community a service. you up for that?
25
dustonian said on December 12th, 2009
Kipp, I haven't found a bad route that you've bolted yet... many props to you. I would have dropped this long ago if not for the continual barrage of BS character attacks that I feel necessitate a response. In fact, I did clean this route quite a bit the first time up it, hucking 3 or 4 of the most egregious dinner plates etc over my belayer's head into the bushes (a compulsive habit after years on new routes). Tell you what, next time I go to Muir I'll climb this thing again and clean it up a bit more the second time around, although some of the bigger blocks will take a pry-bar. Anyway sorry to keep this thread of comments going--it so isn't worth it--but the vitriol of the slander warranted self-defense.
26
pigsteak said on December 13th, 2009
killer. the community thanks you.
27
bcombs said on December 29th, 2009
Somewhere between 0 and 5 stars.
28
climb2core said on August 8th, 2011
I am concerned about a huge ledge below the second bolt that sounds hollow and like it could pull off. It is the ledge that most would be clipping from. The ledge becomes solid to the left side but if it broke it would be at least several hundreds of pounds. I think this route should be temporarily closed until it can be further inspected. I am sending Rick a PM on this today.
29
pigsteak said on August 9th, 2011
keep fat people off the route...problem solved.
30
climb2core said on August 9th, 2011
Geez, first vert calls me doughboy, now you calling me fat... You guys are starting to really damage my delicate self image :)
31
tbwilsonky said on August 9th, 2011
if delicate is the problem, then just add glue.
32
dustonian said on August 9th, 2011
whether epoxy or a crowbar, this steaming heap needs something done on the bottom section before the Webers have another busy day on their hands
33
pigsteak said on August 10th, 2011
lol....I fit the profile too c2c....
34
goodguy said on August 10th, 2011
strip it. Just be sure to give the hangers and chains to Ray or Kipp.
35
climb2core said on August 10th, 2011
I don't know if it really needs to be taken down. I actually liked the climb. I wonder if some epoxy and a little love with a crowbar could clean it up enough? I need someone more qualified than me to look at it and make that call...
36
climb2core said on August 10th, 2011
Rick is going to temporarily close the route with a sign tomorrow until it can be ledge can be assessed and trundled if necessary. Based upon the outcome of that it will either be re-opened or permanently closed...
37
dfspau2 said on July 13th, 2012
A little dirty and a little loose at the bottom, but its easy to avoid the stuff and it cleans up pretty quick... I thought it was fun
38
Spikeddem said on May 17th, 2013
I'm psyched to get on this based upon the comments.
39
pigsteak said on May 18th, 2013
so is it open or closed now?
40
Anonymous said on May 18th, 2013
Warning: there is a dangerous sign under this route. Beware if climbing the route as you might fall on it or get rope tangled. My belayer tripped over it causing him to drop our buddy who was then stung by wasps. No loose rock though.
41
SCIN said on May 18th, 2013
If you would have read the sign you would have known it was dangerous. The sign reads "Warning there is a dangerous sign under this route".
42
eduard said on May 5th, 2014
no obviously loose blocks, just a little dirt around bolts 1-2
43
DrRockso said on March 25th, 2017
The enormous hollow ledge is still there, it can be entirely avoided if you clean off the sand on the holds beneath it. The entire bottom half of the route could use some sand brushed off, bring a brush if you plan on doing this one. Other than that the movement is pretty fun!