Subtle Thievery

This route is located in the Southern Region at Curbside

Avalanche Run


11.
+0
0 votes

Conscription 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Ron Bateman, Josh Thurston, Kipp Trummel in 2006
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This excellent pumper is just right of the previous line. Climb sustained pockets and edges passing a tough move or two along the way. Beach onto a sandy ledge, finagle a rest, reach high to find the best holds you can get, then high step and heel hook over the roof to a relieving finish.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.77 stars (48 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (39 votes)

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Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Apr 30th, 2007

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 29th, 2007

Comments

1
ray said on January 29th, 2007
Scary hanging the draw after the ledge.
2
redpointron said on January 29th, 2007
hey ray, the transport chain on the second to last bolt is because of the crappy rock band below the ledge. IYO, should we put a length of transport chain with a fixed biner to make the finish more enjoyable? btw, kipp should be listed on the f.a. as well. and i graded it 11c. thanks.
3
SCIN said on January 29th, 2007
Yea. Most people (myself included) end up hanging on the chain and hauling up a stick clip it because it's very heady not knowing the move you're committing to coming off the ledge. If you could clip that bolt from the jug above the ledge it would make it far less scary. The line rocks though man. Nice work.
4
redpointron said on January 29th, 2007
i will bring a length of transport chain and i will get a biner from josh and set it up in the next month or so. i had the luxury of having the draws there and could clip from that right hand jug. thanks for the input.
5
Yasmeen said on February 1st, 2007
I happily added Kipp to this FA, seeing as how that's one more route on which he was part of a 2+ person FA party.
6
pigsteak said on February 1st, 2007
man, I just drilled the anchors and have never even touched the route. but I guess that is the new standard at the red, so I am proud to have another three person FA to my credit.
7
bcombs said on September 21st, 2007
Agreed, clipping the 6th was sketchy. Can someone can tell me where to get the chain / provide the chain I'll set it up next time I'm in sore heel. Great route though.
8
bcombs said on September 21st, 2007
Also, I <3 Curbside. ;-)
9
pigsteak said on November 25th, 2007
the routes get better on this wall as you head right....best of the lines in the immediate area.
10
Power2U said on March 30th, 2008
Hey Ray, I see that in the coments you admit to hanging and "hauling up the stick clip", but in the spray you say you did it first go? It's OK to hang on an 11 and admit it, ha ha!
11
SCIN said on March 30th, 2008
Dude, I honestly have no idea what happened there. I'm thinking either I accidentally selected 1 attempt or there was a long draw hung on it when I first did it but then did it again and had to hang the draw? Either way thanks for calling me out punk ass. I'll get ya back.
12
Artsay said on March 31st, 2008
Actually Ray, you did it first go. You climbed that day with Paul and he hung and pulled the stick clip up and then you did it after him first go. Then when you and I went there you climbed it, hung, and pulled the stick clip up so the draw would be hung for my attempt. So yes, you did it first go.
13
512OW said on April 27th, 2008
Agreed about the 6th bolt. Did it hangin the draws, but scared out of my mind at that bolt...
14
pawilkes said on May 10th, 2008
didn't think hanging that last draw was too bad but it would be nice to have something permanent on there.
15
ReachHigh said on June 3rd, 2010
I don't know its been since had a bolt added but the first clip after the ledge didn't seem to bad
16
ReachHigh said on June 3rd, 2010
I don't know its had a bolt added but the first clip after the ledge didn't seem to bad
17
tbwilsonky said on September 30th, 2010
i onsighted this with the guidebook in my pocket. technology win.
18
Spikeddem said on November 15th, 2013
Maybe I'm an idiot, but I took a nice pendulum straight into one of the trees behind this route after cleaning it. I was direct into the second bolt and let go. Nothing real rough, but still jarring...just a heads up.
19
taurusclimber said on July 30th, 2015
The draw after the ledge is still in a bad spot. It should be able to be clipped while standing on the ledge. As it is now, someone shorter than me (5'10) will not be able to reach the bolt to hang the draw without climbing further and above the ledge. I barely got it clipped on a tiptoe, a weird foot and 2 hand moves above the ledge.
20
usmcmars said on June 2nd, 2017
I didn't hang the draws, but clipping the draw above the ledge was uneventful and I am the height of an 11 year old. It is easy to get on that ledge and rest before clipping it. I really enjoyed this climb.