The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Shire

Pee-Wee


1.
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My Name is Earl 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Ron Bateman in 2007
Length: 30ft
Bolts: 3 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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25ft left of PeeWee, climb the short arete using balance and finesse as your arsenal. Fun technical moves.
Moves: Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.83 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (19 votes)

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Comments

1
redpointron said on February 8th, 2007
this is ryan thomas' project.
2
Anonymous said on February 26th, 2007
that ryan thomas kid is a tool and he cant climb.
3
Anonymous said on April 26th, 2007
whoever bolted this boulder problem should go ahead and finish it or open it up to the public.
4
pigsteak said on April 26th, 2007
why?
5
redpointron said on April 26th, 2007
the walk off is about a half mile to the right after you top out.
6
redpointron said on April 26th, 2007
the walk off (for this boulder problem) is about a half mile to the right after you top out.
7
goodguy said on April 26th, 2007
I'll do it this saturday.
8
goodguy said on April 30th, 2007
DONE OPEN
9
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2007
how hard is it really
10
goodguy said on May 2nd, 2007
This thing is hard to onsight. Once I got the moves worked out for the start it was pretty smooth. The grade is accurate for the beta flash.
11
goodguy said on May 3rd, 2007
Ron Bateman was definitely on the FA team.
12
Power2U said on May 12th, 2007
At first I tought, great a 3 bolt mossy slab, who's doing all this? Then I got on it... cool route with a wicked little boulder problem and some excitement on lead, I like it.
13
SCIN said on June 3rd, 2007
This thing felt really impossible until I spoke with my cronies and got the super secret cool kids club beta. Then it went down. It hurt my brain trying to figure it out. Kind of like those damn rubiks cubes.
14
chriss said on June 24th, 2007
Cool route, tough move at the first bolt. to bad its not longer.
15
Climbingrocks said on November 2nd, 2009
I looked at it and thought....what the hell how bad could it be, but it was super unique and fun.
16
pawilkes said on November 15th, 2009
I think a lot of people have a love/hate relationship with this route. You love it if you've managed to figure out the beta and sent it and hate it if you haven't. Me, I love it. Thanks for unlocking it Art
17
caribe said on November 15th, 2009
This thing is stellar, an uncommon style for the Red. A definition of hell would be to have to climb this thing every day however.
18
Spikeddem said on October 24th, 2012
Balancy crux! Good fun, albeit abbreviated.
19
Anonymous said on June 25th, 2014
What's the super secret beta on this thing?? Really fun boulder problem....I will be back Earl
20
michaelarmand said on October 5th, 2017
Yeah PM the super secret beta on this one. I couldn't find any plausible way to get past the first bolt....
21
Anonymous said on October 5th, 2017
Super Secret Beta: Be tall (reach side pull all the way from left hand pocket) or be nimble (cross to side pull with left hand from right hand dimple hold). Me at 5'10 with 0 ape index, I could do the tall beta. = ) hope this helps