Earth-Bound Misfit

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Shire

Trad Lib


12.
+0
0 votes

Team Wilander 5.11d (Sport) *

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Twenty five feet right of the dihedral is this bolted line which begins in a cave. Crank through the initial cave moves, then emerge to the first bolt and enjoy gymnastic moves to the chains.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.57 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (7 votes)

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Comments

1
redpointron said on February 8th, 2007
this is actually ron's project.
2
ray said on April 2nd, 2007
This looks really cool. Reminds me of Scar Tissue at The Zoo. Short and steep. Do this thing Ron!
3
redpointron said on April 4th, 2007
i promise to get to it soon ray. i haven't had a harness on send the weekend it was bolted. ugh.
4
goodguy said on June 20th, 2007
So Ron's been workin this thing and just so everyone knows, it is a bit harder than 11+. I'll let Ron be the judge of the grade. Keep up the good work Ron!
5
Josephine said on June 21st, 2007
it'd be harder than 11+ since natasha so graciously broke off the one jug on the route! ;-) sure was fun watching ron work it though!
6
redpointron said on June 22nd, 2007
i hope to get it early in july. probably closer to 12 a/b. and i don't care too much about the jug she broke. more concerned with the crimp. steeper than it looks. the third bolt is going to get fallen on a lot...
7
goodguy said on June 22nd, 2007
Ya, I sure do like watching Ron "work it" to.
8
redpointron said on June 22nd, 2007
enough with innuendo already, goodguy. geez, kipp may get jealous....
9
pigsteak said on September 28th, 2007
you send this rig, ron?
10
pigsteak said on May 31st, 2009
second bolt is loose. needs changed out.
11
Anonymous said on June 8th, 2009
is this still a project??? i was told it was open. did it 2nd GO. felt about right at 11d. super-fun; a definite recommend, aside from some suspect quality of rock down low. i'm sure others have done it before me, anyone know who the FA is?
12
goodguy said on June 8th, 2009
You probably have the 2nd ascent? It hadn't been opened because we are moving the last bolt down and left about 12 inches. Good work!
13
goodguy said on June 8th, 2009
Just checked with some people and you definitely got the FA. Send me a PM and I will get the info submitted. Nice work!
14
Anonymous said on June 8th, 2009
i didn't mean to steal a red-tagged route. apologies if i'd overstepped my bounds; i was misinformed. if it wasn't open, i'll relinquish my 'FA' (say that i didn't do it) -are you sure no one else out there has done this?- and another with more stake in the establishment of the route can take credit.
15
goodguy said on June 8th, 2009
If you sent it before Sunday, June, 7th 2009 then you get it.
16
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2009
it wasn't before sunday; that was the day.
17
Jeff said on July 1st, 2009
Hey, way to go to the dip-shit that used the cave under this route as a bathroom and left their toilet paper on the ground!
18
ray said on September 26th, 2010
Climbs better than it looks.
19
pawilkes said on November 10th, 2010
really neat movement on only ok rock. worth getting on