COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

One-Armed Bandit

0 votes

Lucy Goosey 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Barry Brolley in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Next line to the left of Cindarella.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

2.56 stars (82 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (70 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: merrick
Date: Oct 31st, 2016

Submitted by: merrick
Date: Oct 31st, 2016


bcombs said on May 7th, 2007
Bring a rake, ....scratch that, a shovel.
Power2U said on May 26th, 2007
DIRTY!!!!!!!!! YUCK! Obly one good move the whole way, rigth before you start gardening.
Power2U said on May 26th, 2007
DIRTY!!!!!!!!! YUCK! Obly one good move the whole way, rigth before you start gardening.
alfredo said on August 24th, 2007
Next person out bring a small saw to remove a rhodo stump up on the ledge. It perfectly caught my rope when I pulled it... had to climb it again to un-knot the mess.
anticlmber said on November 20th, 2007
this is not eight bolts. thirteen counting the two for anchors.
endercore said on April 23rd, 2008
had same problem as Alfredo.
rhunt said on May 8th, 2008
dirtdog said on September 29th, 2008
Maybe it's been cleaned up more by now, but I didn't think it was so bad.
randomboulder said on October 13th, 2008
I think the guidebook says there are 10 bolts, but as Anti pointed out there are 11 +2 for anchors.
michaelarmand said on April 28th, 2009
Some choss in the middle and at the end of the climb. The rest is enjoyable, worth getting on....
kevin614d said on May 30th, 2011
Great climb and clean now. There is some dirt in the middle, but the rest of it is awesome.
wilkes86 said on June 14th, 2012
Climb has cleaned up a lot, still dirty on the middle ledge but great climbing after that.
rjackson said on May 5th, 2013
As good as its neighbors... No real choss, and every ledge in the Gorge is dirty so I'm not sure why it's even mentioned.
redwards said on September 11th, 2013
I fail to recall any vegetation or notable dirt on this. The start is the crux then great edges and super-fun 5.8+ climbing all the way up.
eduard said on May 5th, 2014
a very dangerous and completely loose large block sits on the no-hands rest ledge and a few more blocks around it have large X's - I don't have enough experience to safely remove it from there - someone who does should
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2014
You don't have enough experience to clear the landing zone and throw a rock off a ledge? Ummm you probably shouldnt be allowed outside alone then....
veela-valoom said on April 13th, 2015
There is some mud on the sit down rest ledge but it's easy to avoid if you're paying attention to where you sit/stand. Interesting movement with very little chalk to guide your way.
merrick said on October 25th, 2016
This cleaned up nicely and is a fun RRG 10b with a powerful start. Enjoyed it a lot!