Stucco nu

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

American Graffiti


9.
+1
1 votes

Zen and the Art of Masturbation 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Eric Stevenson in 2007
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next line right of Stucconu. Begin with an easy start then quickly transition to heinous crimping interspersed with mellow pocket climbing to reach the upper headwall. Try to get a shake then tackle the overhang to reach a jug. Trend left to hide in a large hueco for a bit then creep out to take the finishing jugs to the chains.
Bolted by Troy Davison.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
offwidth (1) dynamic (1) technical (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.65 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (22 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 7th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 7th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 7th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 7th, 2012

Submitted by: clmbnggeek
Date: May 5th, 2007

Submitted by: clmbnggeek
Date: May 5th, 2007

Comments

1
SCIN said on May 7th, 2007
Does anyone know if Eric or Troy named this thing?
2
clmbnggeek said on May 8th, 2007
They named it Zen And The Art Of Masturbation
3
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2007
great climb, not so great name
4
Anonymous said on June 19th, 2007
12c maybe d
5
Andrew said on June 19th, 2007
I'll go for d, but it is way harder than OJ, or any other 12c I have done.
6
allah said on June 20th, 2007
I would agree with 12c maybe 12d after more holds break up higher
7
jonnyp63 said on July 30th, 2007
i think it might be a tall thing, it felt rather easy to me after i had a beta run, but my short buddy trick had a lot of troubles at the top and had to do a lot harder moves down low
8
Horatio Felacio said on September 17th, 2007
ray ellington, infamous guidebook author, sent this thing on his 2ND TRY on September 16, 2007!!!!!!!!!! That is why HE writes guidebooks!!!!!
9
lostone said on April 22nd, 2010
does this route have perma-draws, or is someone projecting it this spring?
10
Climbingrocks said on September 13th, 2010
11
Climbingrocks said on September 13th, 2010
Broke a hold at the 6th bolt. Doesn't change the grade.
12
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
12d/13a (depending on the humidity!) Hideous crimp crux, then great sequence to the top! Errh not many mellow pocket moves though!
13
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2011
Lots of broken holds. What a great route. Might want to inspect the biners they are getting worn.
14
brayackmedia said on May 7th, 2014
I found new beta at the fourth. Instead of traverse way left to the jugs, you can climb straight up using a 1/4 pad crimper. My friend told me that I skipped the crux so I guess we all need to downgrade it now right? I figured I'd try and do the straight line on edges instead of bailing to the jugs out left, but I guess I was being a bad Dan BAD.
15
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2014
Dude, nobody cares....
16
Anonymous said on May 8th, 2014
what Anoym said..
17
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2014
Nobody cares that nobody cares.
18
craig.smith1 said on October 2nd, 2014
This thing should end in the big hueco. Do a few moves of 5.9/ 5.10 to clip anchors on a giant detached block that is sitting on top of another giant detached block? I don't care if they are car sized, they are detached. Really good climb otherwise.
19
Anonymous said on October 2nd, 2014
back in the day, we didn't puss out to the left or do everything we could to skip the crux, I've seen puds wank out 15' to the right for the first 4 bolts because they couldn't do the moves, stay on the face next time and get back to me
20
Anonymous said on October 2nd, 2014
Ah, 2007... back when rapbolting was considered manly and forced cruxes were all the rage
21
craig.smith1 said on October 2nd, 2014
Your probably right. I'm sure the anchors are fine.
22
crimpandpeel said on October 2nd, 2014
I know they are fine- I installed them and the block you talk about, well it goes back deep and is about 5 tons atleast, if you pull it down- well god didn't like you that day