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Starfish and Coffee

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Midnight Surf

The Crucible

1 votes

A Farewell to Arms 5.13a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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First bolted line from the left at the Surf. Tread lightly over fragile rock to a good hold a few feet beneath a body length roof. Crank up to the roof, get a shake, then bust through it for a good ledge over the lip. Recover then take on the extremely overhanging headwall on pockets and slopers.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Links
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
pumpy (1) pockets (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.1 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (17 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Nov 3rd, 2015


ray said on November 4th, 2007
This is open now. I think it's probably 5.13a. Don't let the first 30 feet of fragile rock keep you from getting on it. It's a really cool line. Burly and pumpy as hell! Thanks Kipp!
ray said on November 4th, 2007
Oh yea, I couldn't reach the clip in the roof from beneath it so I used a long draw with velcro to stick it in a position where I could reach it. It worked pretty well. Taller people may not have any problems reaching it. It would be really scary and pretty tough to try to clip it once you've begun climbing out into the roof. I didn't clip the furthest roof bolt either, just the glue-in. You really don't need the non glue-in clipped.
512OW said on November 4th, 2007
Nice job Ray!!!
pigsteak said on November 5th, 2007
congrats Ray!!!!!
Anonymous said on February 25th, 2008
Whats with this velcro shit?, tough to hang the draw but OK to clip when you get a good 1-pad hold in roof with low feet, but definatley dont blow it. My 2 cents... -Zac
SCIN said on February 25th, 2008
You are tougher than me. That's all there is to it. I am a scared scared boy. I couldn't reach it without getting horizontal first.
pigsteak said on February 25th, 2008
ray sucks anyway zac.....I begged him to not ruin this pristine climb with his sissy clips. seriously, I am betting just a permanent longer runner would be fine there. the goal is to kep you from crushing the vert wall anyway.
SCIN said on February 25th, 2008
Hey I got into this queer sport climbing stuff to get away from the required large balls in trad. What's up with this! Is this the Peak District or the Red? I'm staying in the gym. I just don't have what it takes to be a big bold climber man.
Anonymous said on February 26th, 2008
Sorry if i sounded like a dick...didnt mean to. I wasnt meaning to chop at anyones ego. I took the fall going to the good hold after the roof W/O anything in the roof clipped, and it was clean. It wasnt because i think im tough or cool, it WAS a clean a fall, and in my opinion the roof clip with the draw hung was NOT a super hard clip for a route of that grade. So let me re-phrase "i was curious why someone thought this was required?" In this world of so called "Queer sport climbing" i guess i liked to see it a little less "Queer", there are ALOT of routes where you could make things easier and safer with really long draws or velcroing shit to a wall. Or we could add more bolts, or just top-rope everything or put rebar in the wall at hard clips, or we could just go bowling. Bottom line Ray... i wasnt saying anything against you at all, i wasnt saying your not a "big bold climber man" I know you are, and i got mad respect for you, the climbs you have done, and the work youve done for the area, to be honest i never even looked at the name of who posted the comment. If i saw it was you i would of posted that comment in a more P.C. manner perhaps, out of respect for someone who deserves it. So realx, go climb, with any size balls you choose, and velcro anything you want, i just may not do it that way. Z
SCIN said on February 27th, 2008
It's cool Zac. Kipp asked me plenty of times if I wanted him to move it but instead I just used the velcro on a long runner to keep it safe. I couldn't bear to see that old man work so hard getting a glue-in out of that roof. He may have had a heart attack. It's good to know it's a safe fall though. You are one brave mofo! It looked like it would definitely be possible to hit the features beneath on the vertical wall if you took the fall.
Anonymous said on February 27th, 2008
Glad theres no hard feelings, I never had any mean intentions. Z
pigsteak said on February 27th, 2008
y'all both suck..just cause I got arthritis and herpes, you don't have to hate. I'll show you both, and skip that clip altogether. btw, that expansion bolt in the roof next to the glue in needs to be removed. I only placed it to hang on, so I could get that bomber glue in, in place.
heavyc said on January 15th, 2010
great route, thanks for putting it up Kipp, helps to be tall to clip the extended roof draw
Cromper said on June 18th, 2012
Excellent route! A couple of flexy holds in the middle but they seem to be hanging in there.
dustonian said on August 28th, 2012
new steel draws on the headwall 8/2012
Cocoapuffs1000 said on April 26th, 2013
Is the roof clip still sketchy with the new hardware?
Cromper said on April 27th, 2013
Still kinda reachy clip for roof, need to add about 3 links and it would be perfect.
Anonymous said on July 14th, 2013
I had zero problems clipping the fixe draw. Seems like its in the perfect position. Could have even reached a few inches higher if absolutely necessary. Really fun route Ray! - Rachel (5'4")
pumpout2004 said on April 12th, 2015
Patb said on September 4th, 2015
Obnoxiously fun route. Since people are talking about it - I wound up extending the roof bolt (that as of 9/2/15 has a long perma) with an extra dog bone that I'd reach back and swing towards me. There seems to be several stances to clip it from, all safe, I just found this the most convenient for myself. I'm like 5'8 for reference. Big thanks to the equippers!
KyleHT said on October 29th, 2019
That roof clip is hard af for me too, y'all are not alone. Btw why in the F*#@ was this downgraded in the new guide? Now I can only day-flash 12d and I'm pissed. I can't wait to tell Kipp I day-flashed his route. I love day-flashing. This shit is 13a all day, unless you are tall with giant lobster claws for hands which specialize in pinching slopey pinch-slopers (aka slinches/popers).