Tree Hugger

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Midnight Surf

Tapeworm


5.
+0
0 votes

Shiva 5.13b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Brad Weaver in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from Vortex about 40 feet to the next bolted line. Begin 15 feet right of a tree. Boulder through the initial blank face to reach a series of long moves to large ledges. Power through a long undercling move to reach a decent ledge. Take the easy road out to the left or contrive straight up for a fun boulder problem. Equipped by Kipp Trummel.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Stays Dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.6 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (8 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Aug 6th, 2014

Submitted by: Kauz
Date: Mar 16th, 2011

Comments

1
therookie said on June 5th, 2007
such a cool crux. i have never done anything this cool on a rope before.
2
Andrew said on July 24th, 2007
Really really cool crux. The swing your body makes when you exit the crux is violent.
3
Andrew said on July 29th, 2007
Now with 100% more fixed draw.
4
kromwell said on October 20th, 2007
after the undercling and the good edge, have any holds broken since the FA?
5
Andrew said on October 20th, 2007
no
6
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2007
wow. then the undercling move is not the crux by a long-shot! the crimps before the move to the jugs are brutal.
7
Andrew said on October 20th, 2007
The undercling move is the easiest move in the crux.
8
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2008
Fun as hell, fun jug hauling to a damn fun bouldering sequence, nice little addition to the wall.
9
Anonymous said on September 7th, 2010
has anyone gone out left (the path of least resistance) after the undercling move in the crux... how hard is the left variation? it's obviously easier, but by how much? thanks.
10
jkpugel said on September 6th, 2017
Going to throw this out there for the masses, but have any of you climbed this recently that have been on it in the past? I've belayed people on it and there was a left hand sidepull to get out to the pocket at the start of the crux. Got on it this weekend and there's a nice sidepull sized divot in the wall so I was wondering if it broke or if it was always incredibly crappy.
11
Anonymous said on October 8th, 2017
Jkpugel. Clearly this route is not for you. Holds break routes change deal with it. I think Bruise Brothers Wall is suited more to your liking. I hear there are some great 5.7s, but be aware I'm sure some holds might have broken off, so the grade may have changed to a 5.8, so prepare yourself.
12
Raiden said on October 16th, 2017
Hey Josh, from what I recall, the hold that you go to off of the undercling (the hold that I'm about to hit with my left hand in the photo) is the same left handhold that you use to go out right to the pocket. Maybe there was a left hand sidepull just to the right of the hold that you hit off the undercling; I can't remember. To answer Anon's comment from 2010 - someone told me that heading left is around ~12+. I never tried it.