Shiva

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Midnight Surf

Cell Block Six


6.
+0
0 votes

Tapeworm 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Brad Weaver, Kipp Trummel in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15 feet right of Shiva is another bolted line. Climb a flake to reach the first bolt. Climb between bulges to flat ledges then cruise up the overhanging headwall making use of the occasional pocket and undercling. Save some oxygen for the high crux.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
dynamic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.89 stars (38 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (29 votes)

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Comments

1
SCIN said on June 4th, 2007
First line I've ever done a full on dyno on. Sick crux at the top. Best line on the wall in my opinion.
2
therookie said on June 4th, 2007
did u mix up this line with cell block 6? j/w cause i dont remember having to do a dyno on this route.
3
SCIN said on June 4th, 2007
Nope. Instead of crossing to the slopey hold at around the 4th bolt I just dyno. I couldn't pull off the sloper. It's the bolt before the pinch undercling.
4
pigsteak said on June 4th, 2007
hey rookie..these chumps don't do the dyno on cell block six either..they grab that crimp out right and get a high left toe or heel hook....
5
therookie said on June 5th, 2007
ahh i gotcha. either way they are some badass routes. have u been back on shiva ray?
6
SCIN said on June 5th, 2007
No man, I haven't. That thing felt impossible! Very nice work on that.
7
Danny said on June 8th, 2009
Very good. More variety than cell block and harder and yep better.
8
Wolf said on September 28th, 2009
Fantastic.
9
Brentucky said on September 17th, 2012
I wonder if the 12d voters used the bad hold instead of the dyno. This climb seems quite a bit easier than cell block if you do the dyno. Regardless, it's a super badass climb with big, fun moves up one helluva wall!
10
KyleHT said on April 10th, 2019
Just as good if not better than cell block. I do the dyno beta for the lower crux, catching that swing is epic!