Cell Block Six

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Midnight Surf

Mellow Yellow


8.
+0
0 votes

Iniquity 5.12b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel, Brad Weaver in 2007
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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10 feet right of Cell Block Six is another excellent line. Pull a tough boulder problem to start then continue up the face on good incuts to reach a squat down rest on the large ramp. Move from the ramp to take on a series of large moves to good jugs.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
classic (1) bouldery (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.66 stars (53 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (40 votes)

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Submitted by: JR
Date: Jun 28th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jun 5th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jun 4th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jun 4th, 2007

Comments

1
512OW said on May 7th, 2007
This route is absolutely badass... I can't wait to get back on it...
2
Andrew said on May 7th, 2007
Super good route, a soon to be classic.
3
rhunt said on May 10th, 2007
Kipp - any chance you'll consider a indirect start for this climb at a grade of 12a?
4
pigsteak said on May 10th, 2007
rhunt..no additional bolts will be added, but the traverse is always an option.
5
Power2U said on May 21st, 2007
Mega classic! Sorry rhunt an inderict start would only be 12b :), and lower the quality. Although, I selected the grade at 12b, this one will make you say hmmm? I love it what a start and finish, look out the Red has a new test piece 12b along with Big Money Grip, and others.
6
JR said on May 23rd, 2007
Cool start, unlikely no hands, great moves up top. Good stuff.
7
Artsay said on June 10th, 2007
Absolutely amazing line from beginning to end. Wonder if the freezer-size ramp will one day fall off this thing? Looks pretty disconnected from the wall in several places.
8
pigsteak said on June 10th, 2007
nice sent artsay!!!!
9
512OW said on June 24th, 2007
Artsay and woman are 5'3" and 5'1"... you short guys have NO excuses!!!
10
Andrew said on June 25th, 2007
Harder if your tall
11
woman said on June 25th, 2007
Andrew...that is bull!
12
Andrew said on June 25th, 2007
Sorry, I said it wrong. Easier if your short.
13
woman said on June 25th, 2007
Double bullshit! You cracker, those moves are Long, and the feet are not scrunchy.
14
512OW said on June 25th, 2007
Haha... reverse excuse making... Frankly, who gives a shit? Just climb stuff. I never heard of Lynn Hill saying "I was too short", or Doug Reed saying "I was too tall". It all evens out.
15
512OW said on June 25th, 2007
However, this route is WAY harder if you have brown hair, and happen to be wearing red shorts. Its like 12d that way. Use anything but Stealth rubber and its a bonafide 5.13b.
16
JR said on June 25th, 2007
"Harder if your tall"? Is that why there is a foot of cheater stones piled up to reach the first set of holds. Come on Andrew. BTW. You are and Your ain't the same just ask pigsteak he is wicked smart.
17
pigsteak said on June 25th, 2007
lol...but I ain't tall JR.... cheater stones of any kind make this thing 11c...after I sent, I chooped out the tree stump for the next set of chumps.
18
pigsteak said on June 26th, 2007
btw, chooping is with the axe turned upside down....
19
rdpoints said on February 5th, 2008
Very fun!
20
der uber said on April 6th, 2009
I'm usually not big on no hands rests on routes, but this one works well. You've climbed through enough to earn it, and you have enough business ahead to need it. And being perched on that detached feature is pretty neat. Great route, seems like everything on this wall is amazing.
21
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2009
Fun route but the start is contrived. Should be "Iniquity" 12a if you start on Cell Block and "Iniquity Direct" (12b) if you start on the boulder problem. The contrived start avoids the natural line and is an unfortunate example of the gym mentality invading the crags... great climbing otherwise though!
22
512OW said on September 2nd, 2009
"someone" should climb it how they want, and not have to attach a number and name to the way they decide is the "right" way according to their "ethics". Otherwise, its an unfortunate example of the gym mentality invading the crags. Just sayin...
23
pigsteak said on September 2nd, 2009
do I even..ah yeah, what the hell...hey someone, I am the FA, and were you there that day? if not, why would you call the start contrived? since you don't know the history of the line, calling it a contrived seems a bit, er misplaced. when it was bolted, there was a huge hold below the first bolt which has since broken off. my buddy kevin todd pulled it off. the start used to be mid 11, but are you now saying that because the route has changed, the names and the FA should change to reflect your desire for an easier start? and come on..you mean traversing in from 10 feet left isn't "gym mentality", but shooting straight up is? just because the hardest move on a route is right off the deck, why take it out? isn't that the same as lowering the chains to escape a high crux move? thx in advance.
24
tbwilsonky said on September 2nd, 2009
wait a minute? the anti-everything-else-other-than-climbing-purity barrier failed again? WHY KIPP? WHY CAN'T YOU KEEP YOUR LINES AWAY FROM THE PERVERSE MENTALITIES OF THE OUTSIDE WORLD? WHY? seriously man. you need to take a long look in the mirror and think about what you're bringing to the proverbial table. because to 'someone', it tastes a lot like rental shoes.
25
SCIN said on September 2nd, 2009
Sounds like "someone" got their ass kicked and needs to learn how to boulder.
26
JR said on September 2nd, 2009
I would say the start of the route is not contrived. However, if you start on Cell Block 6 I agree that the difficulty would clock in at 12a. I don't think the guide book needs to recommend this kind of B.S. ("Someone's" suggestion has Mike Anderson written all over it).
27
pigsteak said on September 3rd, 2009
lol..thx wilson..I love huffing rental shoes anyway. someone, I was just kidding with ya..no hard feelings. hope you liked the line, no matter which way you tried it.
28
Anonymous said on September 3rd, 2009
Wish I could register but the site won't let me for some reason... I swear I am not banned since I haven't used this site before! Anyway, yeah Pigsteak it is a killer route an kudos on a good eye on great bolting job. "Gym mentality" was a strong statement and I regret saying it now... especially in light of the history of the FA and the broken hold, it makes perfect sense why you started there and climbed directly up into the upper section of the route. I really felt like the "redpoint" crux of the route was the last move with a pump on, and the bottom boulder problem just a technical crux. And for the record, yes I do need to boulder more, and yes I fell on the first move and thus blew the onsight on a beautiful route (umm, not that I care about such things or whatever. Yeah, right)... After chuffing off the move, I climbed around the bottom part on Cell Block and cruised to the top--amazing climbing!!! Anyway sorry to stir up any hostilities here, it is a killer crag and having done a good bit of bolting myself in other areas I always appreciate a job well done on new routes.
29
SCIN said on September 3rd, 2009
Which username did you try to register with? I'll activate the account.
30
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2009
dustonian(@gmail.com)
31
pigsteak said on September 4th, 2009
lol..you didn't stir anything up....once you know this crew, everyone is slinging mud just to make you feel at home. just the style on here.
32
ray said on September 4th, 2009
Okay man, your account is active.
33
dustonian said on September 5th, 2009
Thanks Ray! Great website...
34
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
Thanks for bolting a great route, great line, nice bp start and a heart in mouth crux!
35
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2011
Whats the beta for not using the undercling that's about to pull out between the second and third bolt?
36
pigsteak said on April 12th, 2011
I never used the undercling..just a long reach off bad crimps to the slot.
37
Anonymous said on April 12th, 2011
Okay, thanks i was wondering because i went and looked at it the other day and saw the x'd off undercling and it looked like it could be a dyno from the ground....i've never been good at reading beta....
38
allah said on April 13th, 2011
Pull the undercling off!
39
Anonymous said on April 5th, 2014
I gotta want to get up to get down.
40
Raiden said on August 6th, 2014
3 years after the previous comments and the X'd undercling is still there. I have seen people use it recently. I just made a big move from jugs to more jugs (no bad crimps); there are longer and harder moves on the route.
41
Ti-Bum said on November 6th, 2014
Sorry to say this but the initial boulder is really not worth doing at all. Just scratch the skin of your fingers...Bad V5 boulder to 5.11c climbing to a big move at the end of the steepness (making it 5.12a?). Worth 4 stars max in my opinion since the 5.11 climbing is stellar.
42
Spikeddem said on November 6th, 2014
Sorry to hear you got spanked.
43
JohnnyKy said on November 15th, 2016
Nothin better than pullin through a tough on your fingers boulder problem to fun monkey throwing jugs! See yea!!!!!
44
Anonymous said on April 7th, 2017
"scratch the skin of your fingers" might be the funniest thing I've read in lo these many years of comment exploration.
45
Cromper said on April 7th, 2017
Dark ages of young Dustin on RRC.
46
humbledclimber said on July 31st, 2017
Hey guys, how long did it take you to climb routes like this after starting to send 5.11a's. We're just at that point and can't help be get googly eyed at these crayz lookin routes. How long does it typically take to get to these routes from the 11.a range?
47
Anonymous said on August 1st, 2017
lol, varies a lot. if you're 12 and weigh 82 lbs you can climb .12b in a week and a half. how motivated are you? are you fat? can you remember beta? if i were you, i wouldn't focus so much on the amount of time it takes to get to these surf routes - instead, focus on all the amazing routes all over the red that are between .11b and .12b.
48
humbledclimber said on August 1st, 2017
haha well I wouldn't say we're fat and sometimes I can remember my gf's phone number. We'll focus on the other 11's for right now. We're just curious how long it takes to progress from 11a's to doing a route like this.
49
Anonymous said on August 2nd, 2017
but that's what i'm saying - it's really hard to know because every person is so different. but, i don't know, if i had to state an overall average, i'd say somewhere between 1-3 years depending on how much you climb. personally, i moved through 11a-11c really quickly (spring to fall of one year), hit a bit of a plateau at 11d/12a (about a year), and then took a while to get to 12b/12c (another year-ish). good luck and have fun. the red is amazing, at all grades.
50
DrRockso said on May 14th, 2018
Lowering biners replaced with Climb Tech Mussy Hooks 5/13/2018
51
KyleHT said on April 10th, 2019
Vicious boulder problem. Cool rest before the high crux, another classic surf line.