Iniquity

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Midnight Surf

The "end" of the crag


9.
+0
0 votes

Mellow Yellow 5.11b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley, Yasmeen Fowler, Kipp Trummel in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin just left of the blunt arete 20 feet right of Iniquity. Tread the edge of the arete and bypass a large roof by moving right. Continue up a vertical face on huge holds to the anchors.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.61 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (19 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 23rd, 2010

Comments

1
Andrew said on May 7th, 2007
Should clean up nicely
2
Yasmeen said on May 7th, 2007
Fun moves on dirty rock. Whipstocking-sized jugs at the top.
3
pigsteak said on May 9th, 2007
11b???y'all smokin' crack. now whee's the straight face?
4
SCIN said on May 9th, 2007
They're getting you back, sandbagger (cough dripwire cough)
5
Andrew said on May 9th, 2007
I really believe once this cleans up, it will be 11b, or 12b. It depends what breaks.
6
pigsteak said on May 10th, 2007
I've never seen such an 11b start bamboozle yasi for so long....:)
7
Yasmeen said on May 10th, 2007
Well, the girly way is totally like V5, brah... but leave it to Andrew to find the V0 moves to the first bolt. ;)
8
pigsteak said on May 20th, 2007
ok, after peter jones cleaned this puppy up today, it has become a way better rute...still the worst one on the wall however. And I now agree with the grade.
9
bcombs said on May 20th, 2007
Sorry about breaking off the pinch at the crux, glad it still goes though!
10
pigsteak said on May 21st, 2007
brad rocks!!!!!
11
Andrew said on May 29th, 2007
Potentially dangerous
12
Wolf said on June 6th, 2007
I thought it was a lot of fun, and not really that dirty.
13
Anonymous said on June 6th, 2007
Anyone having butt-sex at the base of this route yet?
14
therookie said on June 7th, 2007
thanks piggie
15
Green3 said on June 11th, 2007
if you're on one of those sketchy jugs at the roof and it breaks... ouch.
16
bcombs said on September 29th, 2007
Got on this again today,the roof holds are maybe ok. HeavyC and I gave them the 180+ test, and they passed with flying colors.
17
Saxman said on October 16th, 2007
The roof holds are solid now. The fall going around the corner is also safe.
18
rhunt said on October 16th, 2007
I agree the roof holds seem solid - they held my 185+ ass - but still tread lightly, they are very friabe and fractured and will break someday, that could be ugly. Without a power washer the top part - the part that looks and feels like dried mud - will not likely ever clean up. In summary, its a worthless zero star pile esp comparied to the rest of the wall...thanks pigsteak! ;-}
19
V10Mike said on May 19th, 2008
Seems dangerous up top. Will be interesting to climb this again in 5 years after the entire top half of the route breaks off! Fun but dirty climbing until the last couple of bolts where it turns into a not fun pile of crap.
20
512OW said on June 6th, 2008
It depresses me to see the number of people who've climbed this route. See what evil your tick list has unleashed, Ray??? Thank you.
21
pigsteak said on June 8th, 2008
lol..and it looks like kris hampton added his name to the list on 6-6-08.......nice.
22
512OW said on June 9th, 2008
Its true. I've been consumed by the evil.
23
pawilkes said on September 11th, 2008
I expect this thing to be a pile but I really liked it. If the start wasn't so bouldery I'd imagine it would be a decent warm up for the rest of the crag.
24
kek-san said on September 22nd, 2008
Expected a pile. Really not bad at all.
25
dustonian said on April 9th, 2012
actually pretty good! as long as you don't mind a little sandy runoff.
26
Cromper said on May 3rd, 2012
Real good route, just needs a little brush action up top.
27
climb2core said on July 20th, 2013
This was fun! Good movement, good enough rock, and pretty clean all the way to the chains. Mellow Yellow has grown up and is no longer the red headed step child of the Surf. Kipp was a true visionary.
28
neeko said on March 12th, 2014
funny sandbox
29
DrRockso said on June 25th, 2017
Chossy roof detracts from the route, top is pretty fun.