Sexy Sadie

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

I'll Take Sue


23.
+0
0 votes

You Take Sally 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Matt Tackett, Don McGlone in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from Bessie 50 feet and find a hueco with routes going out the left and right side about 25 feet off the ground. This is the left route. Enjoy technical, sequential moves mixed with some exciting mantels.
Moves: slab, technical
Descent: Anchors
Stays Dry: does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.5 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (14 votes)

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Comments

1
RRO said on June 28th, 2007
Not sure of the exact bolt count, take 12 or so to be sure. if you get on this route please let me know how many. also if you get on this route and feel spunky grab my fixed static line, i will buy you a beer. this is a kick ass route, enjoy !
2
Sco Bro said on June 29th, 2007
This route is also known as "Catching Zzzz's." Ask Tackett about it and he'll buy you a beer. 11c my shiny white ass.
3
Wolf said on July 5th, 2007
The hardest of the slab routes here. Maybe the best, too.
4
alfredo said on September 8th, 2007
This is Kick Ass! Just when you think you've passed the crux... you reach the real crux. Twice!
5
alfredo said on September 8th, 2007
This is Kick Ass! Just when you think you've passed the crux... you reach the real crux. Twice!
6
krampus said on September 30th, 2007
Very cool crux moves. Hard to onsite but 11c if you know the moves.
7
JR said on September 29th, 2008
I cann't believe you guys bolted this thing. It is almost completely blank for 30 feet. It has got to be hard to find slabs this good. Genius!!!
8
pawilkes said on February 17th, 2009
i couldn't imagine onsighting this thing without chalk on the route. stellar route!
9
Brentucky said on November 16th, 2009
Holy shit, my love-hate relationship of ~ one year with this thing finally paid off! Frikking fantastic climb, cool moves the whole way, well-bolted but still plenty scary, and it goes all the way to the top to finish with a stellar view! My fingers and my toes have never hurt soooo good! P.S. Krampus is full of shit.
10
pigsteak said on January 1st, 2012
best up at chica...nice job matt and don!
11
Saxman said on April 1st, 2012
Sorry to report I broke a key hold today. The matching pair of iron oxide ledges you could stand on 2-3 bolts above the hueco now only has the left hold. Getting through that move is MUCH harder now and you don't get a good recovery stance like before once you pull the move. Easily a grade harder now 12a/b.
12
kurktj said on September 16th, 2013
I never tried it before but I don't think the breakage would change the grade, the iron pieces are still some of the more positive holds on the route. You can get a no hands before and after you grab them. The two bolts below felt like the crux to me
13
kkschm said on September 16th, 2013
I'm 5'4''...anyone have short people beta between bolts 6 and 7?