No Country for Old Men

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man


11.
+0
0 votes

The Unbearable Lightness of Being 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Ron Bateman in 2007
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next bolted line left of No Country for Old Men. Move up the overhanging face taking advantage of the occasional gargantuan jug rest. Scoot left near the top and make a big move before the chains.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.05 stars (41 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (40 votes)

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Comments

1
goodguy said on September 6th, 2007
This is not the first route on the right. Ron Bateman should also be on the FA089
2
goodguy said on September 8th, 2007
oh and by the way, you won't hit the tree if you fall at the top. The last bolt is down to the right so you will fall away from the tree. Iam however still going to lower the anchors 4ft or so to keep from potentially lowering the quality of the route.
3
chriss said on September 13th, 2007
I wouldn't lower the anchors ... just the grade. Fun route with great movement throughout.
4
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2007
the name of this route is a fantastic book
5
woman said on September 18th, 2007
i agree. its by milan kundera.
6
pigsteak said on October 15th, 2007
not 12a....but good line Josh! thanks for the work.
7
michaelarmand said on October 23rd, 2007
I got on this line when it was listed as a 11b, and it punished me. Now I don't feel so bad....
8
Anonymous said on August 4th, 2009
"you won't hit the tree if you fall at the top. The last bolt is down to the right so you will fall away from the tree." --- I did this route about a month ago and I fell going for the last hold... i definitely hit the tree... it wasn't bad, i wasn't injured, but i certainly hit it.
9
Anonymous said on August 4th, 2009
oh! and, it was a great route... and you shouldn't let this stop you from getting on it. just stay alert and be aware of the tree.
10
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2009
Great route!!!
11
Meadows said on October 6th, 2009
I thought this was easier than the 11b on the right. More jugs and less bouldery. Really fun route!
12
whatahutch said on November 18th, 2009
I thought the book sucked. If I wanted an in depth study (an interrogation is what Kundera said) of what makes a person's psyche tick then I would have read a text book on psychology, not a book that is called a novel because it is fictional.
13
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2011
Ditto on definitely hitting the tree, although I just kinda skipped off it and luckily didnt really feel it. Big move wasnt too big (5' 10" climber).
14
nik said on May 8th, 2012
a few things -- (1) i took the fall at the top (not by choice, ha) and i didn't hit any trees, (2) this was my first attempt at an overhung 11c and it completely kicked my ass (felt effing hard...not really any super hard moves, but pretty sustained...i didn't get much recovery from those rumored "monster jug" rests), (3) the unbearable lightness of being is a fantastic book. not a traditional novel, but has some fascinating insights into relationships, intimacy, and human attachment.
15
lilmannimal1 said on May 6th, 2013
this is a great route! but it's a lot easier for men because there's a non-hands rest that can be secured via a cockjam. i could not do that, so had to pump all the way up the route :(
16
BailBiner77 said on August 10th, 2015
Just a heads up, I swung into the tree with the "Be Quiet, People live on top of this cliff" sign like a human wrecking ball yesterday after cleaning this route. It did not feel good and was thankful I did not impale myself on any of the little broken branches sticking out. I was at the second bolt when I let go. I would recommend avoiding this!;) Thump!
17
Chiyram said on March 7th, 2016
Careful when cleaning this thing, when you swing from at least second bolt you slam into the tree behind you. Great route though!
18
iclimegud said on April 9th, 2018
cleaning perma added on 04/08/2018
19
Chiyram said on April 16th, 2018
You took a perma draw off the wall? Or was it an aluminum draw that someone left?
20
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2018
No, they added a perma-draw to the wall to prevent future tree collisions.
21
Sarahbelzile said on June 18th, 2018
Yeah this route definitely has all the jugs that are sorta missing from some of the others on this wall. I got a handsfree rest in that hueco by doing a sideways foot cam in the back... weird, but it worked. My new fave for the wall.
22
KyleHT said on April 10th, 2019
Great route! Perfect warmup, flowy with no violent stopper moves.