The Giver

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The Stranger


5.
+1
1 votes

The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Ron Bateman, Josh Thurston in 2007
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Short but sweet. Just left of the crack climb "The Giver". Climb the first route left of the large scoop. A steep technical start leads to enjoyable climbing above.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
juggy (1) vertical (1) fun (1) short (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.9 stars (96 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (84 votes)

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Submitted by: Cleatus
Date: Oct 7th, 2008

Comments

1
pigsteak said on October 7th, 2007
too bad the start isn't easier...this thing would be a classic 5.7 with those awesome plates up high. thatnks for the ton of work you've done on this wall.
2
Brentucky said on October 14th, 2007
do the fun start on a variety of fairly sharp holds (take your personal pick of pulling, pinching, side-pull, undercling, etc.) with one crimper hold that probably makes the rating. then run to the anchors.
3
merrick said on October 15th, 2007
pretty fun!! classic red power pulling to the rad plates above. stiff start and easy finish!
4
mpittdawg said on October 19th, 2008
an easier version of aquaduck pocket...hard first 2 bolts, then it eases up.
5
rhunt said on November 7th, 2008
Aquaduck Pocket's sharp little bastard brother.
6
Jollygreen68 said on April 27th, 2009
Fun little route. Steep at the beginning and then in it turns into a 5.7 vertical jug fest after you pull past the second bolt. Super fun and easy, would be a great first lead for someone trying to get into this level. Can't wait to try the rest of the harder routes here someday. Place is amazing. Thanks to whomever opened this up and did all the work. It's beautiful.
7
Josephine said on June 21st, 2009
i thought it was fun! pitty it's not longer.
8
ReachHigh said on July 12th, 2009
very nice! it really does feel like the 10 version of aquaduck.
9
allen said on July 15th, 2009
fun but the business is short lived
10
dbrayack said on November 16th, 2009
this is a really good route
11
soccerfast007 said on November 26th, 2009
Awesome climb, just keep chugging til that 3rd clip and then enjoy the 'rest.' The second clip was the crux, I definitely thought I was a goner when I started bumbling the clip, so much chalk to choose from. It is a very inspiring walk from Animal Crackers to De Bibliothek wall and the climbs look classic!
12
ender52 said on December 5th, 2009
Got to the top and thought "Aw... it's already over??"
13
ddchil01 said on April 18th, 2017
my first 5.10b send outdoors so far! crazy fun route with slightly steep beginning followed by a huge ledge at the anchors which makes cleaning a breeze :) my new favorite route in RRG!!!