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On the Prowl

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast


0 votes

Peer Review 5.10b (Sport)

First Ascent: Mike Cole, JATD crew in 2007
Length: 35ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50 feet right of the trailhead and On the Prowl are two short bolted lines. This is the first of the two and ascends a featured face. This route has become popular due to the fact that it may be a top contender for the worst route in the Red.
Moves: Face
Descent: Anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

1.79 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (27 votes)

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One-Fall said on September 23rd, 2007
Please don't take this personal. I felt this route was dangerous. I believe you would deck if you fell trying to clip bolt two. The rock quality is on the low side. I also felt that the top was pretty hard, and I don't want a new climber to get a false sense of security due to the grade. Good effort, I just dont think it came out as intended.
512OW said on September 24th, 2007
You'd deck if you blew the clip on bolt two of 98% of routes....
pigsteak said on September 24th, 2007
I'm with one fall on this one...and kris...the bolting on this one is a bit "spicy"...and most routes have deck potential and clip two.
ReachHigh said on September 24th, 2007
I've bolted few routes but I didn't think it was dangerous when I bolted because of the holds and stances you get to clip from. I also felt if I added on more bolt on a route this short it would have been over bolted. I do think the crux is height dependent, Input either way is welcomed.
soccerfast007 said on September 28th, 2007
I personally brushed this one off over an hour during trail day, and put my two cents in on the bolt placements. It is new and somethings may break off down low, Mike and I (each 10lbs +-180) broke off the extra jugs during our 2-4th goes so what is left near the bottom, if you aren't jumping on the tips of the more fragile looking stuff, won't give anyone any grief clipping bolt #2, a reasonably long stick clip may even reach bolt two from the belay stand. Regardless, is a 5.5 scramble to the second bolt, it would take a series of unfortunate events to deck someone trying to make that clip. Great route, great crux and sustained finish, get out there and try it out...c'mon everybody's doing it!
Power2U said on November 19th, 2007
Not a good climb.
ashtray said on November 19th, 2007
Total Heap. One of the worst sport routes I have ever been on (so poor that I yearned to be on a Curbside route), BUT on the plus side it is worth 25 points. So it gets 5 stars in terms of its Point-to-Effort (P/E) Ratio. Why is it poor? Bad Rock, Really Bad Climbing, Super Super Dirty, Super Short, Bad Landings, and did I mention Dirt? Good points, gear looks solid and good anchor. Grade felt right, it just sucked. I recommend pulling the bolts on this one. And I say that not in jest. I have done alot of the other "clean up" routes on that end of Solar and most are pretty good and all yield cool moderate climbing(esp if you like slab which i do), but this one - WOW!
JR said on November 19th, 2007
Sorry soccer. You can not polish a turd.
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
Why not give it 5 stars? I mean it IS a new route and the JATD crew put a lot of thought and effort into bolting it so that the red would have a nice set of moderate routes. Not to mention the cash outlay for 4 bolts and anchors. You guys are so fucking mean! What a bunch of haters! I have to go with One-Fall and Piggy on this one. Great job JATD crew! Keep up the good work!
RRO said on November 19th, 2007
this route is not that great, no doubt about that. no offense to the folks that did bolt it and get the fa but it prob should not have been done. thats cool, lets talk routes. but are you really that crusty of an old man or does it just make something move without using viagra to always be trash talking the peps that have pretty much made all the trails on the pmrp and have paid for you a place to play, even before there was a jatd crew.
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
Trash talking? WTF? I know you are not directing this at me. I have turned over a new leaf where criticism of new routes and new route developers are concerned. My new philosophy is: It's all good. Give it all 5 stars. I mean no one would intentionally bolt a pile would they? Props to everyone! You too RRO (although I wonder why you are hiding behind a cloak of anonymity).
pigsteak said on November 19th, 2007
ashtray...I think that is love I hear in your voice for Curbside..I'm blushing. one would bolt a heap???? I would...esp. now to piss you off. :)
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
I don't buy it Kipp. There are no bad routes, just bad route names. BTW.....Pressure is spelled P R E S S U R E.
SCIN said on November 19th, 2007
You mean it has to have spaces in it?
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
ashtray said on November 20th, 2007
fyi, i wasn't trash talking the peeps, but instead that heap. again no offense, but it really really sucks. the 5.7 sport crack beside it however was cool. Whew talk about a hard 5.7. a good one though. see there, a few props. and oh yeah, thanks for all the trail work, that new trail is cool and i use it all the time. i give it 5 stars. in a few months you all might want to do some maintenance though as i imagine there will be stacks of people heading up to do Peer P R E S S U R E.
ReachHigh said on November 20th, 2007
I think I have bolted quite possibility the worst route in the red.
dirtdog said on May 27th, 2008
got lured to the right after the last bolt and came off. found the move up the middle after that. didn't think it was that bad
pawilkes said on February 16th, 2009
where's the 0 star option? total pile of crap, worth some points. i did dig the moss out of a sweet two finger pocket to help get to the anchors though.
caribe said on March 22nd, 2009
I enjoyed it and did not think it was sketchy. It is a good little warm up.
Saxman said on March 22nd, 2009
Route is not that bad. Not sketchy at all.
chriss said on March 23rd, 2009
Not that bad? This is a worthless pile! Of all the routes in the red, this has to be one of the worst. This should be a negative point route.
ReachHigh said on April 2nd, 2009
duplicate name changed to something a bit more fitting
ReachHigh said on April 2nd, 2009
Also I though the route was 10a but was added to the online guide as 10b.
ynp1 said on October 22nd, 2009
The worst route in the Red! After climbing it you have to ask, why?? The only people dumber then the people that bolted it, are the people that climb it...
jdstic2 said on March 21st, 2010
i read the comments and discription of this thing and got excited. it live up to all the hype
rjackson said on November 7th, 2012
It certainly lived up to the hype! Not a total pile, as t's got quite the pucker-factor going for it...
Cromper said on March 31st, 2013
What a piece of shit route; 5 stars.
whoneedsfeet said on March 31st, 2013
Instead of climbing this route I decided to be the peanut gallery for cromp and jermdog. Don't think I've ever seen so much flailing in my entire life.
Anonymous said on June 6th, 2017
Didn't quite reach the 3rd bolt and thought it would be a good idea to traverse right. Looked down saw it a few feet below me. Fell on 2 finger pocket. Hard catch, missed mantel but hit the tree. 5 star. Took second whipper.
Nchugh77 said on October 15th, 2017
Why... :(
MaceMooseWalker said on November 29th, 2019
I definitely agree height dependent (I’m 6’2”) the route was actually not as bad as I had expected. It had some difficult holds at the top and the feet to the left (below anchors) were muddy today. I’ve definitely been on worse and way more sketchy climbs. I’m still glad I climbed it.