Gobstopper

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Wonka Vision (Open Project)


72.
+1
1 votes

Charlie 5.13b (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Steve McClure, Mike Doyle, Daniel DuLac, Sonnie Trotter in 2007
Length: 0ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
The obvious thin dihedral on the left-hand side of the Factory. 5.13a/b. Tough onsight.
Sent by all in the FA list during the 2007 Petzl Rock Trip on the same day. A great group effort.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:
dynamic (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (2 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 27th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 27th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 27th, 2012

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Apr 23rd, 2012

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 30th, 2008

Comments

1
512OW said on October 16th, 2007
Word is that it hasn't yet been led while placing gear...
2
pigsteak said on October 16th, 2007
then it is a sport route, and should be mentioned as such.
3
allah said on January 15th, 2008
Technically this is a mixed route, it has a bolt down low to access the crack past the wet nasty section down low
4
dustonian said on April 9th, 2012
Redpointed by Enzo and Etienne yesterday! Killer work guys... props for finally finishing out the hardware at the anchor :)
5
pigsteak said on April 9th, 2012
does redpointed mean pre placed gear? I am so old I get confused easily....
6
dustonian said on April 9th, 2012
Gear placed on lead. Except for two fixed nuts they said would require a hammer to remove.
7
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2012
Great to watch Enzo redpoint this. Effortless. And yes, there are two 'fixed' nuts and one low bolt for protection over the mossy section at the bottom (lower grade). He placed the rest of the non-fixed gear on lead. I will have some photos on my FB and blog if anyone is interested. // Jon Thorpe
8
climb2core said on July 13th, 2012
http://climbingnarc.com/videos/enzo-oddo-etienne-seppecher-climbing-charlie-5-13b/
9
Raiden said on December 10th, 2012
My buddy Doug McGraw sent this on gear 12/01/12, without clipping the bolt (or any fixed gear, which he removed). I believe this would be the FFA.
10
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2012
would you like a cookie? all the other free ascents were still free, whether they clipped a bolt and fixed nut or two or not.
11
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2012
A cookie would be great. And yes they were free, but it's not quite the same as placing all gear on lead.
12
dustonian said on December 10th, 2012
There have been several ascents now without in-situ gear. Not sure if they used the bolt or not, but who cares.
13
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2012
Cool thanks dustonian. -Raiden
14
Corona said on February 19th, 2013
Great climb; even better when it's not full of cobwebs! I feel it's significantly easier than reported, especially when set against the generally stout-graded trad routes of the Gorge proper. I'm guessing that's because most ascentionists don't cop out like I do, stretching up to clip the anchors from the low tips locks instead suffering through the hard final moves. I definitely agree that the sequential stemming would make for a tricky onsight