Nameless

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Far Side

Papa Love Jugs


5.
+0
0 votes

digitalgia 5.11c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Arthur Cammers in 2007
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from Nameless to the next route. Climb sharp crimps to a feature.
Needs anchor gear, draws at top are Blake's.
Moves: crimps
Descent: Fixed draws
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.1 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (11 votes)

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Comments

1
caribe said on November 5th, 2007
Next week end I will put chains at the top of the route and return the draws to Blake. I think the bolting was optimized, congratulations Wes, et. al. You have a good eye for this stuff. The first bolt can be clipped by walking up the incline at right and reaching over left. Joe Haynes made a platform with a flat piece of rock for the climber to stand. The loose dirt on the incline was annoying and an invitation for erosion. Joe also did quite a bit (most) of the janitorial work. The lichen leading up to and at the crux made it impossible (for me) stay on the wall. The crux is well-defined with a fairly long move off a tough hand-match position at bolt 3. The line is fun. This route is called digitalgia (Latin, pain in one finger) because there is one shallow pocket that will bite your left hand ring finger when you try to disengage to reach the next hold, if your fingers are as big as mine. My blood speckled holds around the 3rd bolt.
2
pigsteak said on November 12th, 2007
now that was a long winded explanation. :)
3
pigsteak said on November 12th, 2007
btw, fun powerful line.
4
kirker said on April 29th, 2008
Though line. So I thought. Any beta for the middle section. I tried going out left, which looked like a first attempt by anyone.
5
michaelarmand said on August 19th, 2008
Yeah....what is the beta for the middle section? Seemed impossible...and dirty....
6
dbrayack said on November 18th, 2009
Again - I think this felt quite hard for ?11c or whatever it is - good climbing - really techy...great climbing though - and i almost biffed it going for the first bolt - should have stick clipped....
7
tbwilsonky said on November 5th, 2011
excellent technical climbing; amazing counterpoint to the overhung 11 around the corner.
8
Jeff said on April 13th, 2012
Didn't Joe bolt this? Excellent job man! Four stars all the way. Loved the movement on this route!