Hippocrite

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

Sidewinder


15.
+0
0 votes

Aviary 5.12b (Sport) *

First Ascent: Doug Curth in 2007
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Left of Hippocrite is an arete with a high first bolt. Begin on a large boulder and power up to a ledge at the second bolt. Get a shake then make reachy moves on sandy holds to gain a roof. Traverse left to clip a stray bolt then gun through more awkwardness to meet a good shake on an epoxied flake. Continue on thinning and disappearing holds to the anchors which are way right from the last bolt. Use a 70 meter rope if you want to get down without any issues.
Equipped by Mark Strevels.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Fixe ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (1 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos

Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}

Comments

1
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
This is Mark Stevels' route. He just finished bolting it a couple of weeks ago. I don't know if he has climbed it yet.
2
funhog said on November 22nd, 2007
I still fall off of 10s Snyde, so nothing but harsh bouts for me. Ashley told me this evening that someone sent it but I don't know who he said did the deed. Jeff did confirm 12b through the second bolt. Thank him for suggesting that it might be worth the hardware as well. Also, Eric Anderson, Todd Chapman and Frank Waters all contributed ample patience at some point as I gumbied around drilling it. I wanted to call it Aviary for a Zoo thingy, as the ledge is a very nice perch.
3
SCIN said on November 22nd, 2007
Hey Mark, do you want to call it "Aviary for a Zoo thingy" or "Aviary for a Zoo"?
4
funhog said on November 22nd, 2007
Ray, oops I forgot the paranthetical. Just "Aviary" was what I intended.
5
dbrayack said on January 15th, 2008
I'm glad to see this route is open now, I've been looking at it for quite some time with envious eyes...
6
JR said on January 17th, 2008
For one, this is way over 50 feet. Secondly, I think it is worth noting that the finish is psychotic. Lastly, I hope you enjoy pulling on glue. This sucker is truely old school.
7
funhog said on January 26th, 2008
JR is correct about the length, it is at least 80 ft. Would another bolt help at the top or is it just too thin/crispy/suck? Let me know if there is a fix. As for the glue I was pretty sure someone would yard on that thing and possibly kill a belayer as it was a flexer. I suppose I could have just cranked it off with the moljinar and chiseled a big rail or something but that's not my style. If the glue oozed out I will clean it off though. Have not been up there since I tremied the epoxy in.
8
Yasmeen said on January 26th, 2008
Hey, I updated the length to 80 feet. If you want to give me the rest of the info, I'll update that, too. Bolts: First Ascensionists: Descent: Moves: Dryness:
9
JR said on February 1st, 2008
FA:Doug Curth Descent:Rap from a ledge. Anchors are WAY up to the right from the last bolt. Moves:Face climbing Will be wet in rain.
10
V10Mike said on April 25th, 2008
Spent some time doing recon on this route. Long and fun. Unfortunate crux low is not very aesthetic. Cleaned up some loose rock and scrubbed a couple holds. Could be a pretty good route but it really needs another bolt! I don't mind a spicy run-out but this one is a little too much! It IS a sport cliimb after all!
11
One-Fall said on May 26th, 2008
I had a somewhat different experience of the route. THE GOOD: Really great movement that flows well. Interesting variety of holds. Aesthetic climb with a great view. THE BAD (IMO): The climb would be a near four star if it ended at the second to last bolt. While the anchor placement might be the natural finish of the line, the last bolts bring the quality down. Lots of feet still breaking, that will clear up in time. As for the length, with a 60 m rope, we had to lower the climber and pull them on to the boulder at the base. There was not enough rope to lower to the ground. All said and done, just want to say I appreciate you Mark for taking the time to put up the route. Its a good edition.
12
funhog said on July 7th, 2008
Golly, that is too bad about the lowering issue. I actually never considered anyone would do that, duh. Although we did have a TR on it for the longest time with no rope shortage, must be all the wandering between bolts (roof) eats up cord. It was set up for rapping off only. I guess the best thing to do is party with your party on the ledge and rap off. How stiff is the move between the last 2 bolts? Thanks for the kind words, seems a shortage of that in all the other crap I read here.
13
JR said on September 22nd, 2008
I agree with Onefall on where the anchors should have gone. About the cleaning debacle. I put a quick link on each of the last two bolts. I sent the route and downclimbed and cleaned the route using the quicklinks as an anchor that are more in line with the route. And the quicklinks don't leave you ass out with a 60m rope. Not exactly an equalized anchor but O'well. I hope that helps. O and you can pretty safely lead the route without clipping that bolt that is way out left in La La Land(is it there to keep the rope out of the crack?)
14
Spikeddem said on November 12th, 2012
Four years later, does anyone have an opinion on the current state of this climb?
15
whoneedsfeet said on November 12th, 2012
I have a option on this climb.
16
zabadoo222 said on September 10th, 2015
I found (and took) a bail biner on the first bolt of this climb back in April. It has been bugging me as to why someone would leave it. Anybody have any ideas?