COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory


2 votes

Loompa 5.10c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: in 2008
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
One of the better 5.10 lines in the Red. Pump up the overhanging wall on incuts and pockets to reach a crux just where you don't want it. Dive for a gigantic horn and chill to the chains.
Moves: Plates
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
pumpy (2) steep (2) fun (2) hands (1) juggy (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

4.55 stars (132 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (134 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: alfredo
Date: Apr 29th, 2013

Submitted by: Jaba
Date: Nov 8th, 2012

Submitted by: tbwilsonky
Date: Dec 7th, 2010

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 29th, 2008

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 29th, 2008

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 29th, 2008


allah said on November 26th, 2007
And this one "Loompa"
bcombs said on January 22nd, 2008
Best of the 10's at this wall.
Myke Dronez said on March 12th, 2008
Powerful moves on overhanging flakes and pockets. Seemed to require more braun over brain than Oompa. Sustained till the last bolt with easy anchors that will bring a smile. I second the vote for best 10.
anticlmber said on March 26th, 2008
sgood. little bit sharp, little bit sandy, little bit burly yet technical. kick ass. best of the two.
Cleatus said on April 1st, 2008
Chain anchors, 65 ft, 6 bolts. One of the best 5.10s around. Bring your endurance.
pigsteak said on April 1st, 2008
you really think these are 65 feet? I was guessing 45-50 tops.
Cleatus said on April 2nd, 2008
All these lines end on the same horizontal ledge- if the length posted for "The Glass Elevator" is correct, this is 65 ft.
Anonymous said on April 7th, 2008
This route and oompa are definitely 50 feet because one 200 foot rope can be used to set-up top-ropes on both routes simultaneously as long as you thread it right.
lena_chita said on June 21st, 2009
Great route! A nice happy family: Daddy Dogleg, Momma Hippocrite, big brother Amarillo, and two babies, Oompa and Loompa. They are a great-looking family, but man, are they mean to short people...
camhead said on June 25th, 2009
this gets my vote for best 5.10 at the Red. Way good, and a great intro for people wanting to see what steep jughauling is like at a more moderate grade.
512OW said on June 25th, 2009
Good plan camhead... especially since your spray says you've done exactly 4 of the 5.10'a in the Red...
Meadows said on June 28th, 2009
Camhead has done more than his spray shows. Way more.
Meadows said on June 28th, 2009
And way harder grades.
ReachHigh said on October 5th, 2009
My favorite of the three awesome 10s
Brentucky said on November 2nd, 2009
Yep, this thing is super good. I'm not too smart being Kentucky-bred and all, but I really can't imagine how you could find much better jug-hauling at the grade.
ThunderMug2 said on September 1st, 2010
I drop knee'd so hard I dislocated my hip. It was a couple moves below the horn when I cranked my right hip into the wall. My harness pulled it back in when I fell off the wall. That was scarry. My leg still worked, so I finished the route without any more right leg drop knees.
Cromper said on September 5th, 2010
Very cool route, as said before much like amarillo only at a lower grade.
said on September 20th, 2010
IMO Best 5.10 in the red...amazing route
der uber said on March 19th, 2012
Great quality rock and movement
mattpowers said on October 17th, 2012
Unless you've got it dialed, it's damn hard for the grade.
Willy said on May 10th, 2013
Super fun! Easier than Oompa imo
Rx2Climb said on October 23rd, 2014
This is my favorite climb so far (only been on about 100 or so routes outside).
Chiyram said on February 8th, 2015
This route is awesome. Pretty pumpy, but the side pulls and the plates make it worth while. Foot work is key.
tazunemono said on August 23rd, 2018
Rebolted with glue-ins and new anchors 8/11/18
Anonymous said on October 10th, 2020
I just saw comment #8. Instead of using your rope to hog two classic routes you should use it to hang yourself and and all the wimpy ass clowns in your hammock party. Rat-Baby