COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
One of the better 5.10 lines in the Red. Pump up the overhanging wall on incuts and pockets to reach a crux just where you don't want it. Dive for a gigantic horn and chill to the chains.
Powerful moves on overhanging flakes and pockets. Seemed to require more braun over brain than Oompa. Sustained till the last bolt with easy anchors that will bring a smile. I second the vote for best 10.
This route and oompa are definitely 50 feet because one 200 foot rope can be used to set-up top-ropes on both routes simultaneously as long as you thread it right.
Great route!
A nice happy family: Daddy Dogleg, Momma Hippocrite, big brother Amarillo, and two babies, Oompa and Loompa. They are a great-looking family, but man, are they mean to short people...
this gets my vote for best 5.10 at the Red. Way good, and a great intro for people wanting to see what steep jughauling is like at a more moderate grade.
Yep, this thing is super good. I'm not too smart being Kentucky-bred and all, but I really can't imagine how you could find much better jug-hauling at the grade.
I drop knee'd so hard I dislocated my hip. It was a couple moves below the horn when I cranked my right hip into the wall. My harness pulled it back in when I fell off the wall. That was scarry. My leg still worked, so I finished the route without any more right leg drop knees.
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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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