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Peaches and Cream

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Mike Teavee

2 votes

J Rat's Back 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dario Ventura in 2007
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the second bolted line from the left side of the wall and easily the best on this section of the wall. Climb slotted pockets to reach a distinct crux section after clipping the fourth bolt. Continue up to a short overhanging pockets section just before the chains.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private

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Quality Consensus

4 stars (62 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (60 votes)

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Submitted by: jupitervast
Date: May 5th, 2010

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 30th, 2008


Anonymous said on June 8th, 2009
This climb is super sweet.
Nick said on October 12th, 2009
tall, clean, good movement, and a great view from the anchors.
krampus said on October 26th, 2009
pretty sweet rout, have fun if your under 5'6''
NateS GR said on October 27th, 2009
I haven't got this one yet but it is an awesome line. For a new climbing area the holds felt great. I'll be back to get this one done in a month or so.
Brentucky said on November 2nd, 2009
The moves on this climb are super cool and great clipping holds all around! Thanks for the bolts!
pawilkes said on November 9th, 2009
5 bolts of great pockets to crimps. lots of fun!
dnietosi said on May 10th, 2010
Cool route! One of the rings in the anchors has a huge crack.
climb2core said on April 6th, 2011
It is a very fun climb, but kind of a one move wonder. Vertical 5.10 climbing to a height dependent reach, then a v4 boulder problem, followed by more 5.10 climbing to the chains. Worth doing, but tougher for the shorties.
dustonian said on December 22nd, 2011
super enjoyable high-quality climbing. seems more like mid-11 the way everyone is going out far left on the golden rock at the third or fourth bolt.
der uber said on April 9th, 2012
Real fun, recommended.
climb2core said on September 17th, 2012
One of the ring welds was coming apart. I put a quick link on the anchor to use instead. The rings were all oval shaped... not sure if that is how they were made or if they got like that from top roping? Anyways, just be aware.
nik said on March 19th, 2013
awesome climb. reminds me a lot of disappearer. the first four bolts alone would be one of the better short 10b's around.
Chiyram said on April 14th, 2014
The right rap ring is cracked beware.
climb2core said on May 17th, 2014
Much more chalk on the left hand, skip the crux, version now. Though I am almost always about finding the path of least resistance I just felt that going that far left was pretty much doing a different route. The quick links I had put on were gone and there were still the two steel ovals.
Sketty said on May 19th, 2014
Agreed - stick to the center line and earn the grade. It's a cool move and is well-protected. Going out left is definitely easier but more contrived and a lot less satisfying.
Anonymous said on May 19th, 2014
It's "more contrived" to take the line of least resistance? WTF? This route is mid-11 on a wet day...
JR said on May 20th, 2014
The route goes left. It's 5.11. Get over it.
climb2core said on May 20th, 2014
Ha ha. The route actually goes which ever way I want to climb it. Get over yourself.
Ballsnauer said on November 11th, 2014
This route is fun as hell. I didn't go out left cause that's not how I learned to climb it. Path of least resistance definitely goes left but the crux is fun as shit so why rob yourself of that. I's contrived...
Ottice Webb said on March 6th, 2016
Right Rap ring is cracked, added a steel quicklink 3/5/16
tazunemono said on July 17th, 2016
Route is sweet, albeit a bit contrived in the middle section, where it's possible to cheat around the crux bolts. 12a if you go straight up, and 11c if you head left when it thins out. Spoiler alert: Crux starts with a long reach off an undercling rail to a couple pockets, then a V4-ish Boulder problem to a chickenhead, followed by a stab to a jug off two crimps with smeary feet. After that the grade drops and you get some great views from the top few bolts.
Sarahbelzile said on September 5th, 2017
Agreed that its a one-move wonder for those of us who can reach the pockets before the crux, but its a super fun climb. The easier climbing has fun movement.
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2018
Crux is fun. If you go out left at the crux you're a punk ass chump.
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2018
If you worry about how other people climb a random rock in the middle of nowhere KY, you might be a punk ass chump..
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2018
You definitely went left.
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2018
I def havent climb it, chump.
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2018
Hmmm. I think the next step here is for you to actually climb the route.