J Rat's Back

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Violet Beauregarde


58.
+0
0 votes

Mike Teavee 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kenny Barker in 2007
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15 feet right of J-Rat's Back. Climb a few bolts to reach a tough crux guarding the prominent flake feature which leads to easier climbing for the rest of the route.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.19 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (19 votes)

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Submitted by: tbwilsonky
Date: Dec 8th, 2010

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Aug 4th, 2009

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 30th, 2008

Comments

1
pawilkes said on September 1st, 2008
I'm pretty sure this is no 11 but the first two bolts were kind of cool, thats as far as I could get.
2
allah said on September 2nd, 2008
this one sucks wish i never put bolts in it
3
pigsteak said on September 3rd, 2008
was I on a different route? is this the second route from the right side of the wall...couple of big throws, a tiny knob/crimp move at the crux?
4
pawilkes said on September 5th, 2008
if I am right in where this thing is, this route is the second sport route from the left, theres one more to the right on a slightly overhanging wall. the dominate feature of the climb is a psuedo-flake for the first 4 or 5 bolts but you don't really use it much and it disappears between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. there was a tiny, sharp chip to get between the bolts but i couldn't figure out how to use it. from the ground it looks like a sweet route, following the flake and it maybe once you get past the third bolt. does the route description sound right kenny?
5
allah said on September 6th, 2008
This is the route, when i did it i remember grabbing a really bad pocket and throwing to a bad pinch at the bottom of the flake, cool move but gives way to 5.8 climbing from there.
6
pigsteak said on August 2nd, 2009
oops..got on this today, and holy cow is it tough at the second bolt. a bit of reach would help for sure. I am for sure it isn't 5.8 climbing after that....nice sandbag kenny. and it isn't as bad as you say.
7
Jeff said on August 4th, 2009
Above picture taken by rjackson. Pitching off the "5.8" run to the anchors.
8
latch said on September 12th, 2009
Is it just me, or does the crux sequence on this thing feel harder than .12a?
9
krampus said on October 26th, 2009
hard 12a for sure, but not quite 12b. This rout was a lot of fun from beginning to end, yeah its gets easier for a few bolts but right back on ya at the top. nice rout kenny.
10
schwagpad said on March 22nd, 2010
Good route. Gnashed my teeth on the rock doing the move at the second bolt. Tough move for 12a, then fun climbing to the top.
11
Saxman said on August 25th, 2011
Looks like the crimps which go left after the flake have broken and gotten much smaller. Overall it doesn't feel like a 12a. Feels about 2 grades harder than the one on the left.
12
tbwilsonky said on August 25th, 2011
agreed. the 'crux' felt easy in comparison to the micro-crimp sequence after the flake. but i get the feeling people are skipping that and heading up right through the shrub/ledge.
13
Anonymous said on August 25th, 2011
if this is named for Mike Tea then it's choss.
14
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
really cool route... hail mighty Allah!!
15
Chuckdott said on September 5th, 2012
No need to cheat up right through the choss. The 2nd crux of moving left after the flake on tenuous crimps is a really great move and makes you think. Everyone in my group who didn't flash it gave it a second go.
16
512OW said on October 24th, 2012
I liked this one better than it's neighbor to the left.
17
greek4pearl said on March 23rd, 2014
Fair warning to all that may climb this in 2014 and beyond...this thing is now for sure harder than 12a IMO. I did J Rat in 2 goes (awesome route by the way), and there is no question this is at least one grade harder. The first crux at the second bolt is at least 12a hard, and it definitely appears any decent crimps after the flake are now gone. There just haven't been any reviews of this climb in quite a while, and I would love to see some recent feedback as the climb stands now. Either way this and J Rat are both really cool fun routes especially if you have a bit of reach.
18
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2014
Jrat's about 11c or so... funny how people assume holds must have broken if they get shut down
19
greek4pearl said on March 24th, 2014
That's great logic. So if a given climber typically onsights 14d and suddenly a climb takes them significantly more attempts you don't think the route is most likely harder? Like I said, I am interested to see more recent comments from people as this hasn't been reviewed since 2012.
20
Anonymous said on March 25th, 2014
J Rat is 12a in the guide book and has solid 12a concensus here...I must be missing something?