Mike Teavee

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Easy Pickins


59.
+0
0 votes

Violet Beauregarde 5.12a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Nate Auk in 2007
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Rightmost line on the vertical wall. Begin on the left edge of a low hueco.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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3 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (1 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 30th, 2008

Comments

1
Power2U said on November 2nd, 2009
What's up with the bolting job on this???? The first bolt is like 30 feet off the deck?? I've heard of mandatory stick clip but this is a little ridiculous.
2
chriss said on March 22nd, 2010
We could easily reach the first bolt with a stick clip (nothing ridiculous here, except your lack of spacial awareness). Amazing route, IMO, this is by far the best on the wall. Awesome technical climbing with multiple cruxes. Probably best to talk your partner into chalking holds and hanging draws, right fray21? More people should get on this.
3
fray21 said on March 22nd, 2010
I would suggest bringing a Chris to chalk holds and unlock the beta! A couple hard face moves seperated with great rests. Fun route.
4
Saxman said on August 25th, 2011
Any reason why more people aren't getting on this?
5
Brentucky said on November 8th, 2011
What makes you think people aren't getting on it Saxman? If it is the spray list maybe it is just that this is the toughest of the three. I'll vouch for that as my name didn't yet make the cut. I also agree with chriss that it is the best of the three with several thoughtful (and tough) moves.