All The Pretty Horses

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The Unbearable Lightness of Being


10.
+0
0 votes

No Country for Old Men 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Ron Bateman in 2008
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start just left of All the Pretty Horses with two large underclings. move through the pumpy lower section to a rest then power through the bouldery finish.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.42 stars (26 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (30 votes)

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Comments

1
goodguy said on April 15th, 2008
Fun line with good rests, and it stays dry!
2
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2008
Wow what an original name for a route.Damn you guys are brilliant. Truly amazing wordplay. Where did you come up with that gem??
3
pigsteak said on May 7th, 2008
hey "someone"...I had nothing to do with this line, but damn dude, if yer gonna slag someone, be man enough to use your real name. btw, all these names are from damn good authors....maybe pick up a book once and awhile..let me guess, you thought it was a movie....cheesey.
4
rhunt said on May 7th, 2008
The movie was not as good as all the hype, I've not read the book. Oh wait we're talking about the route. Haven't been on it yet so I can't say.
5
pawilkes said on May 12th, 2008
no underclings at the start anymore, Art's fat ass broke them off.
6
caribe said on October 7th, 2008
Art's stone crushing fingers broke them off. It was either that or kill my annoying climbing partner with my bare hands.
7
Lil Josh said on June 29th, 2009
Pumpy and fun.
8
Saxman said on September 20th, 2009
Much harder than Portrait of the Artist and Tea at the Palaz.
9
Power2U said on October 6th, 2009
Another SOLID fun 11 at de Bibliothek! No giving 'em away here:)
10
crayon said on October 30th, 2009
It looked like the 2nd bolt on this route has either been chopped or removed via some other means. Anyone know about this? It's dangerous in its current state, and someone has put a large chalk X at the bottom of the route.
11
pawilkes said on October 30th, 2009
the second bolt on this route has been spinning for a while, pretty much since it was put up. I guess it finally came off or someone was sketched out enough to pull it.
12
dbrayack said on November 16th, 2009
definitely need to add a bolt to this one - looks like a good route - but having the 2nd bold gone is definitely bad news kennels....
13
THB said on December 8th, 2009
I replaced the 2nd bolt this past Friday (Dec. 4, 2009). Climb on... have fun, be safe.
14
redpointron said on December 8th, 2009
thank you THB. i asked pigsteak if he could help me out (since i no longer live so close), but i think he had a tax seminar. beer is on me next time i am in eastern kentucky. regards.
15
aaronkupferer said on December 13th, 2009
and don't forget who helped in this endeavor... (only since beer is involved)
16
Brentucky said on March 22nd, 2010
As far as I could tell you still start on underclings and pretty much no "real" feet, but perhaps there used to be others that Art's fat-ass broke off. In any case, it's that damn hold you get to from the underclings that is sharp and hurts like a motha!