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A Confederacy of Dunces

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The Sound

0 votes

The Fury 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2008
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line is just left of A Confederacy of Dunces and also much cleaner. Begin in a swampy mess to gain the face then watch your forearms swell as you take on this overhanging monster of a route. If you're desperate for a rest there are kneebars to be had.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

4.06 stars (35 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (35 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jun 2nd, 2008

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jun 2nd, 2008


pigsteak said on April 18th, 2008
this wall will be known as "bib left" when completed. there will be 6-8 routes here. currently, this is the only line open on the wall. it is the second bolted line from the right.
512OW said on April 19th, 2008
Cmon man. I got shit for giving a hardcore boulder problem a "soft" name, so you should get shit for giving an 11b a "hard" name. Such a waste.... :)
pigsteak said on April 20th, 2008
naw has nothing to do with the route..the day we were bolting, the waterfall was running so heavy and so loud we couldn't even communicate, the bolter and the guy on the ground....the waterfall was "the fury".... and let me know what you think of the grade.....may make a few folks fly into a fury. :)
Yasmeen said on April 21st, 2008
LOL, the inner turmoil of pigsteak surfaces again... official rating from the first ascentionist (pigsteak): 11b, consensus rating based on one vote from the one person who has sent the route (pigsteak): 11c. Do you enjoy baiting me like this? ;)
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2008
"No move harder than 5.10" I reckon that makes this route 5.10.
pigsteak said on May 7th, 2008
fair enough "someone"...get on it and tell me what you think a fair grade call it 5.10, we'll change it. it's all just rock climbing anyway.
512OW said on May 7th, 2008
uhhh...huh? No move harder than 5.10 equals 5.10?? You go do 85 12c moves in a row and tell me the route was 12c. Not a chance.
pawilkes said on May 12th, 2008
this thing is long! the huge kneebar at the anchors is so great
Meadows said on September 22nd, 2008
"No mover harder ... must be a 10"? Have you climbed Mercy the Huff? General consensus is that it's 12b, yet there's no move harder than 5.11a. But geez, why is it 5.12? Kipp - wonderful route! It still needs cleaning and you didn't F us on the anchors. Good job, buddy!
bcombs said on April 12th, 2009
This is my favorite on this wall so far.
Josephine said on June 21st, 2009
if i'm belaying someone on this route again who may fall and outweighs me, i'm asking them to unclip the first bolt once they reach the 2nd. it seemed like it was high enough but those were some big falls up there and i went flying. :-)
512OW said on June 29th, 2009
Ok, 4 stars is WAY too generous. It was certainly fun, with some of the coolest pinches on the wall... but 4 stars? Really? Nothing on this wall is 4 stars. Maybe someday when it cleans up it could be...
pigsteak said on June 29th, 2009
sucks to have community consensus doesn't it Kris? lol...I happen to agree with you. these three climbs are "average" at best. some people should vote 1 star to bring this one down.
SCIN said on July 2nd, 2009
The route already has 3 stars.
Anonymous said on September 1st, 2009
This route is bitchin!! Feels REALLY pumpy to me for 11c but whatever... the moves are easy but I was completely blasted and fell at the top.
said on June 1st, 2010
Awesome route!!!! pumpy goodness.......still needs to clean up a little...
Brentucky said on June 7th, 2010
Shoot, 3 stars is too generous. This is 4 stars on a 10 star scale, and that's just being nice b/c I like the 'steak. Compare it to Special Boy, Crucify Me, TROCS, and other good, similar style climbs and this thing is a straight up choss pile.
pigsteak said on June 8th, 2010
If you sent brent, you can complain to not, please delete your comments.
dustonian said on June 8th, 2010
Yeah WTF, a guy spends a day and $75 bolting a route and all the little girlies wanna do is whine. I actually like this route mroe than TROCS because it doesn't have all the gay lay-down rests. The rock is fine and only getting better. Thanks Piggie!!
pigsteak said on June 9th, 2010
lol...dustonian has my back, and brentucky is getting to be weak old sauce like
dustonian said on March 21st, 2011
I did this route again and now I agree with Brent. It is fun though anyway ;)
Corona said on April 23rd, 2011
Well, here's an outside opinion. The climb is beautiful. Props to the equipper for the vision and the energy that went into this climb. There aren't a lot of climbs of this style at this grade at the Red--it's the 5.11c version of Tuna Town...except it isn't 5.11c, not even close. It's harder than Scar Tissue, it's harder than Bettavul Pipeline, and it's harder than Return of the Schneid. It's also a hell of a fun, spicy adventure--can't believe it doesn't get five stars!
dustonian said on April 23rd, 2011
It's a good route with fun moves for sure, just needs more brushing. ROCS is immaculately clean by comparison.
Wolf said on May 13th, 2012
Fun route. When I did it a couple of weeks ago there was a small hueco on the route that contained a bat and a wasp building a nest. It was an inspiring example of inter-species cooperation and I was happy to not be stung or bitten. The half-melted through dyneema sling that someone had lowered through to bail from the 5th bolt was less inspiring.
DWH said on June 30th, 2012
As of yesterday, there was a basketball sized wasps nests 25 feet below the anchors.There weren't any wasps, however, but be warned. Otherwise this route was very clean and loads of fun. Pull down on buckets until your arms melt or you clip steel.
Brentucky said on June 17th, 2013
Please ignore my prior gumby comment. It turns out this route is actually a really good 5.11 pumpfest. I just hadn't climbed enough of Kipp's other chosspiles at the time of my prior comment to have a fair comparison. It is now 4 stars on a 5 star scale. :-)
whoneedsfeet said on March 30th, 2014
Amazing adventure, seems like it goes on and on and on. unique holds and knee bars in just the right spots to fight off the looming pump. Kudos Piggy.
Anonymous said on September 25th, 2015
Beware: Left anchor is loose in hole and will not tighten. Perhaps a perma-chain on the last bolt will suffice for a back up until one of us gets out there to replace the anchors/re-bolt entire route (looks like I may just have volunteered). Love this route BTW. John
Anonymous said on September 25th, 2015
If only the developer was still active in the area and could take care of it himself... ah such wishful thinking ;) Ian
Anonymous said on September 25th, 2015
crap plated bolts 4 lyfe dawg
Anonymous said on September 26th, 2015
the developer moved to Rocklands. is putting up king lines with Nalle i hear.