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Tea at the Palaz of Hoon

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The Fury

0 votes

A Confederacy of Dunces 5.11c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Joel Handley, Kipp Trummel, Ron Bateman in 2008
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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From the main Bibliothek wall, head left down a ravine for 50 yards to reach another section of the wall with a few bolted lines. This is the rightmost line on this section of the wall. If you can make it through the first three bolts of dirty and fragile rock then you'll be rewarded with slightly better climbing for the rest of the line.
Please leave steel locking biner in the middle to clean the route.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

2.54 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (11 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jun 2nd, 2008


krampus said on May 6th, 2008
Lots of fun, just skip the choss going to the third bolt and the move becomes much more fun. The rest of the rock is quality.
pigsteak said on May 7th, 2008
i agree.....the bit of bad and sandy rock is well worth the trip up this thing. going to the chains is full value.
512OW said on July 7th, 2008
That bad rock is a shame. The moves are rad, but you can't just "ignore" the bad rock. Its there, like it or not, and it lowers the star count. However, the rest is pumpy with cool movement. Should clean up if it gets climbed enough...
pumpout2004 said on November 9th, 2008
Really good. Scary through the chossy rock, but high crux is super fun. Pumpy
Meadows said on October 6th, 2009
Was not excited about this at all.
Corona said on September 24th, 2010
Great movement, just needs a go-over with a leaf blower and a bit of traffic.
Corona said on April 23rd, 2011
Choss? This route is a whole heap cleaner than Return of Chris, and has seen a whole lot less traffic, which gets five stars. It's also a stiff 12a. It's got great movement, hard cruxes, sustained climbing, and tricky route finding on a huge and intimidating face--all the ingredients for a modern classic. I mean come on, Cherry Red gets 4-5 stars and it's an intractable sandpile!
Brentucky said on June 17th, 2013
The bottom isn't too bad and has interesting enough movement to be called fun. Stick clip the second if it makes you feel better, and then delicately clip the third with belayer on guard; it is good climbing after that, and I left one less hold to explode up top. Unless I missed something I thought getting through the crimp crux felt harder than 11c.
Anonymous said on July 21st, 2014
Walked past this route today and saw a toaster oven sized block which popped off about 15 feet up.