East of Eden

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

American Psycho


19.
+0
0 votes

Lolita 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2008
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just left of East of Eden. This spicy route will keep your attention. Tell your belayer to bring their A game while you clip the third bolt.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.4 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (15 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jun 2nd, 2008

Comments

1
woman said on May 13th, 2008
this is a little creepy...first, the unbearable lightness of being, one of my favorite books, then Lolita, my favorite book, and East of Eden the first over 300 page book I ever read...and loved it! Who is stealing my reading list?
2
pigsteak said on May 13th, 2008
going to the third bolt, have your belayer on full alert. fall is clean. bolted with spice intentionally. there are several ways to navigate the crux, depending on your height.
3
pigsteak said on May 13th, 2008
woman, ron batemen (redpointron) is the english lit graduate. all route names are his creation. thank him , or let him creep you out.
4
redpointron said on May 15th, 2008
why the need to pluralize my last name piggie? and the only person i hope to creep out is you...
5
Thomas8696 said on May 16th, 2008
crux is short lived, fun route with a hard move from a crimp to a waco and then a big move to a jug. soft for the grade.
6
pigsteak said on May 16th, 2008
thanks thomas..i am asking ray to call it 12a.
7
JR said on May 20th, 2008
Finally something at this wall with balls. Nice job pigsteak.
8
512OW said on October 13th, 2008
Nice little twin lines.
9
bcombs said on November 30th, 2008
Hard getting started, cool moves.
10
Rajiv said on March 25th, 2009
Tried this last week- fun route! Above my ability, but in my style, so I multi-hung through it on toprope. At least one hand-hold crumbled under my fingers, widening slightly, and one foothold came right off. It was my first time to the Red, and this was one of the most inspiring routes I got on.
11
dbrayack said on June 8th, 2010
Sorry guys, but I really didn't like this one...couldn't do the move...didn't try it - cause if I blew it - I was gonna deck (falling from the crux) - and if I did do the crux and then fell on the next move - I would have hit the deck...let alone trying to clip. Stick clipped through and still couldn't do the move (on tr) - great looking Wall and Kipp you do a great job, but I wasn't psyched on this one! <3
12
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2012
Didn't feel very dangerous to me.
13
Brentucky said on June 4th, 2012
At first I thought it felt like 12b, but once the proper beta was unlocked 12a seemed right, and the clip was no longer scary. Nice climb, but not as cool as East of Eden.
14
Anonymous said on May 18th, 2018
the commentary on this makes the bolting sound stupid. tell your belayer to bring their 'A' game? sounds like decking potential off a difficult post crux clip, for some 'spice'? humbert humbert my ass.