A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

Tea at the Palaz of Hoon


13.
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The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Ron Bateman in 2008
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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First bolted line on the left side of the main Bibliothek Wall just before the trail heads down into a large ampitheater. Begin 10 feet left of the previous line. Sustained and technical climbing.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.57 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (24 votes)

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Comments

1
goodguy said on June 3rd, 2008
Just sent this today. sustained technical climbing throughout. There will be one more line to the left of this soon.
2
redpointron said on June 4th, 2008
the name of this route is "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
3
said on June 9th, 2008
Congrats 2 Ron!
4
pigsteak said on July 19th, 2008
nice addition josh and ron.
5
Yasmeen said on October 13th, 2008
This one is my favorite route on the wall -- good moves and skin friendly rock.
6
kek-san said on October 8th, 2009
Sustained and fun. Rock gets better as you go higher.
7
whoneedsfeet said on September 4th, 2012
Stellar route, a few jugs along the way to get it back on. Very unique holds, had a blast every go on this route.
8
Chiyram said on March 7th, 2016
This seemed harder than The Unbearable Lightness of Being to me. More sustained for sure, but the consensus on this is 11c and Unbearable is 11d. Style difference maybe.
9
lagricola said on March 19th, 2018
I agree with Chiyram about this feeling harder than Unbearable. Lots less chalk to guide the way on this one, though