Oink! Oink!

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

Three Toed Sloth - Open Project


17.
+0
0 votes

Surfin' the Whales Back 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Jeff Colombo, Mark Ryan in 2008
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Bolted line beginning on a pocketed face 20 feet left of Oink! Oink! Climb the chimney for the first 3 bolts, make an awkward third clip, then step left onto the face for interesting pocket climbing.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.6 stars (20 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (18 votes)

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Comments

1
caribe said on July 15th, 2008
If you want to trip, try this thing without chimneying. The movement on this route is fantastic; get on it. fantastic bolting!
2
JeffCastro said on July 15th, 2008
This route was really fun. The start requires a lot of balance.
3
pigsteak said on July 19th, 2008
does this thing climb the chimney for the first three bolts? the face seemed harder than a 10.
4
Myke Dronez said on July 20th, 2008
I don't know if we all cheated down low but the move to the anchors felt like solid 10. Fun and unique.
5
colombo said on July 28th, 2008
Climb the face to the first bolt then through the chimney, then back on the face to the anchors.
6
bcombs said on November 30th, 2008
So... Not fun nor 10b...I don't know what the heck you do at the top. The chimney was entertaining.
7
ray said on April 19th, 2009
If the crack was supposed to be part of the route it seems like it should be a mixed route or the bolts should be in a little closer. I was confused.
8
Sco Bro said on April 26th, 2009
Hated it. That may be because I was terrified.
9
michaelarmand said on April 28th, 2009
Loved it! Brad - at the top you grab the jug and clip the anchors. PM me if you need any other advice, on anything really....
10
bcombs said on April 28th, 2009
Thanks, MichaelArmando... I'll make sure to hit you up if I need any more bad beta.
11
Rollo said on May 25th, 2009
this route reminded me of the game where you put your hand in a box and try to discern what is inside by feeling it.... think of the holds on this route as proverbial boxes. usually i enjoy the game, unfortunately, all the boxes on this route are filled with whale sperm.... thus, i motion to rename this climb "sucking the whales back".
12
Anonymous said on May 26th, 2009
If you like this kind of sport route(chimney/arete/face) check out Monobrow and 7-11. Personally these routes are sort of confusing. Rollo why so salty(pun intended) about this route. Puns are fun. So are climbs and rhymes.
13
JR said on May 26th, 2009
That last route comment was me. As you can see.
14
Rollo said on May 26th, 2009
you know better than anyone why i'm so salty.... you made me do this terd over and over until i sent! Oh, the humanity!
15
slaps said on October 15th, 2009
3rd bolt is sketchy since the inside of the chimney is all muddy and mossy, should have been closer to chimney possibly on the rampy face about 2 feet to the right of where it currently is. Broke a couple of crimps at the top crux just beneath the anchors, so now it's a bit tougher. Sorry!
16
DrRockso said on January 10th, 2017
Felt hard for the grade, quality would improve if the moss was scrubbed off. Agree with the previous comment that the 3rd bolt was difficult to reach from the chimney. Good knee bar at the top before the beta intensive last moves.