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Pure Imagination

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Taffy Puller (OPEN project)


75.
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0 votes

The Golden Ticket 5.14c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Adam Taylor in 2009
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50 feet right of the previous route is this striking line which served many during the 2007 Petzl Rock Trip. Climb a slightly overhanging face then battle through a challenging wave for the second half of the route. Equipped by Kenny Barker in 2007.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.14c (3 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Aug 2nd, 2011

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 30th, 2008

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 30th, 2008

Comments

1
anticlmber said on October 2nd, 2008
this route looks soooooo amazing(ly) hard.
2
pigsteak said on October 2nd, 2008
and amazingly beautiful. kenny, once again, amazes me with his workmanship.
3
allah said on October 2nd, 2008
its just luck brothas there were quit a few people that knew about this wall (thats how i heard of it) but no one else put any bolts in it. And I just bolted the two most obvious lines there. I just wish i was strong enough to rock climb on it :)
4
SCIN said on October 21st, 2009
Sent by Adam Taylor on 10/18/09
5
Yasmeen said on October 24th, 2009
I updated the grade from "Grade Unknown" to 5.14c so it'll show up if people are searching routes by grade. Let me know if the grade needs to be changed.
6
Nick said on November 24th, 2010
Ethan Pringle seems to have confirmed the grade at 14d
7
pawilkes said on January 4th, 2011
Felt soft for the grade.
8
pawilkes said on January 5th, 2011
note: Always log out of RRC when using other people's computers. Sorry folks, I didn't jump 2 number grades in a month
9
SCIN said on November 8th, 2012
Allah says this should be bumped up to 5.14d because most who have sent have called it that. But Adam gave it 5.14c when he bagged the FA and that was recently confirmed by Ondra. Thinking it should not go to 5.14d now.
10
pigsteak said on November 8th, 2012
whats it in the new book at?
11
allah said on November 8th, 2012
Haha, that was before all this OS business and DG from woods and ondra. Before that Adam was the only one that thought it was 14c so do the math, 3 think D and 1 thinks C mmmmm. Majority would have ruled, that may have changed now after the last few weeks. Do what the majority think
12
Anonymous said on November 8th, 2012
actually at least 2 think 14c including the FA
13
Anonymous said on November 8th, 2012
but if you put this back to c then many other easier routes need to be downgraded too including its neighbor and the marley routes
14
dustonian said on November 8th, 2012
Woods suggested 14c for this route as well, so that makes three. It seems that PI is the one more due for an adjustment though.
15
climb2core said on November 8th, 2012
14c seems to be the consensus. Wonder what Lachat and Weaver say about it. I know Duttle is working it too.. ask his opinion.
16
tbwilsonky said on November 8th, 2012
all this commentary from 5.12 climbers will eventually make this route 13b. please stop. you're discursively making the holds bigger.
17
Anonymous said on November 8th, 2012
I'd be surprised if that is what woods actually thinks.
18
allah said on November 8th, 2012
Read my post again, before this fall there were more people thinking D, now after this fall it seems to be right on the edge C and D the only reason I care what goes on with this route is because I still consider it mine since I found and bolted it. It's cool seeing everyone talk about it now. More people need to send it and throw their 2cents in!
19
SCIN said on November 9th, 2012
Dropped grade back to 5.14c
20
pigsteak said on November 9th, 2012
Kenny, after 5 years Ray is gonna take "equipped by" out of the description, so you and I will only be butt stains on the face of memory lane. The line will forever be known as Adam Taylors soon enough;)
21
SCIN said on November 10th, 2012
Just what will you do without all the fame? I mean everyone always knows and respects the grunt, right?
22
Anonymous said on November 22nd, 2012
http://vimeo.com/53636034
23
@@@ said on January 9th, 2013
Hard for the grade