My Way or the Highway

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Quicky


2.
+0
0 votes

Darling Dirtbag 5.8 R (Trad) **

First Ascent: Dan Beck and Nicole Bunda in 2008
Length: 93ft
Gear: Standard rack and the 3 smallest tcus or c3s (report bad anchors)

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As you walk into Chica Bonita, this is the arête, crack, and face system immediately before the rockhouse that houses Quicky through The Dude Abides. Climb the arête with care and then plunge into a hand crack. Pull some small roofs and bulges and then slide up the slab to the top. It's not that runout, but I hope you remembered small cams for the top.
Morning sun.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree with webbing
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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2.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (1 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 5th, 2016
Climbed this yesterday. Started on the arete and worked left to where the crack seemed to be. Was quite adventurous with dirty placements in questionable rock, including a few horizontals. Finally got a decent .75 in on the crack about 35-40ft up. The upper slab section was caked in dirt and moss, but had just enough small features to get to the top. Added a small sling to backup the existing biner and webbing that was around the tree. Wasn't siked with not so good placements on fragile rock, could use a good cleaning and some folks top roping it to clean out the rotten rock.
2
Anonymous said on April 5th, 2016
The cleaning and toproping crew is on their way lol
3
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2017
Has this been bolted recently. I was there today and climbed a route just before the rockhouse that was a sport.
4
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2017
Bolted route by Joe Leismer with permission of FA, shares the start.
5
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2017
Thanks, does it have a name/grade?