5th Bolt Faith

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Tall Cool One


5.
+1
1 votes

Continental Drift 5.7 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Harini Aiyer in 2008
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Mixed route located between "Fifth Bolt Faith" and "Tall Cool One." Stem across or wiggle up the off-width to a ledge. Protected by three bolts. Then work up a wide chimney to the ring anchors. Camalots up to #4 and nuts. This route can also be easily set up as a top rope climb by climbing "Tall Cool One" and traversing 8 feet left to the top anchors.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.62 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (12 votes)

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Comments

1
rjackson said on May 18th, 2009
With hidden holds and bolts, the bottom is fun and well-protected. Be careful of the debris in the cave, get some pro with long slings then make some more sport moves to gain the upper section. Be sure you have wide gear for the top. Solid holds, you just have to find them. Sportiness down low and exposure up high should up the grade; I didn't think it was a cake walk.
2
Regina said on November 10th, 2010
I loved it! The route it so varied. The offwidth, the hard move into the cave (crux), the tiptoe around and then over the overhang, the easier finish...all good. Thanks Harini.
3
Felipe said on November 11th, 2010
Really nice route. Up to the cave you can choose what technique to use: off-width, corner crack + face climb, stemming or even plain face climbing (this option would make the climb much harder). Don't let the roof in the cave intimidate you; in my opinion, it's not the crux, unless you don't like roofs, right Regina? ;). That move should be about a 5.6 roof move. After that, the climb is just plain fun. Both before and after the cave, remember to look around for the holds. They are there ;)
4
jenbongo said on September 10th, 2013
I was glad those bolts were there, 'cause that was the hard part (I give it 5.8). Getting out of the cave, I'd say is 5.7, and the rest is easier. If it weren't so chossy, it would be a beautiful climb.