Gorilla

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

Hot Fudge Sunday


20.
+0
0 votes

Glide 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2008
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This excellent route begins just left of Gorilla. Climb easy moves to an undercling before the third bolt. Get psyched then crank hard on edges to reach a knob up and left. Grab a quick shake then dance up the face on solid edges interspersed with the occasional iron oxide jug.
Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Recommended to hang a long draw or stick clip the 3rd bolt it to prevent falling into the slab if you blow the crux.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
sunny (1) scary (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.92 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (12 votes)

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Comments

1
krampus said on November 5th, 2008
early crux to sustaned climbing. Another great rout for you jug haul chuffers to cry about.
2
ray said on April 27th, 2009
Excellent solid edges. Best route at Boneyard.
3
jimmy said on September 20th, 2010
crimptastic!
4
samwisedhiman said on October 6th, 2014
That area of the boneyard seems to just collect humidity... or its just my finger strength.
5
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2015
Are people climbing through the crux and then clipping the third? Or..?
6
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2016
I am making a one day return to the boneyard and it may be my last session here till september. It is supposed to rain the day I am going, so my question is, DOES THIS WALL STAY DRY? Surfing the whales back was muddy and mossy, but it follows the drip line. Does this route stay dry in a downpour? Does any one have recommendations for a crag with 5.12b and lower to climb on rainy days???? Some knowledge on dry crags would be awesome.
7
jkpugel said on May 11th, 2016
This wall has a few routes that might stay dry but this route is not a good contender for a wet day. Solarium is a great place for mid/low 12's and it stays reasonably dry. Midnight surf will stay dry but most of the routes are a step up. You may be better off going to Bob Marley on a rainy day since you always have the cave there for some 12s. Hope this helps and you may get better feedback on the forum, enjoy the rest of your trip.
8
dustonian said on May 11th, 2016
I vote mank, dew point-dependent
9
Jessiejbriggs said on March 8th, 2019
Looks really rad from the ground. Crux is indeed cool but this whole wall is covered in powdery lichen. Might actually be good if it saw traffic.