Wake and Bake

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

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6.
+0
0 votes

Hippie Speed Ball 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of the slab wall is an overhanging section of the cliff with two nice looking pocket lines. This is the first line on this wall. Clip a high first bolt to begin. Pull through long moves on deep pockets to a crimp crux just before the shuts. Watch out for the tree from the last bolt to the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Shuts
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.71 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (19 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: May 22nd, 2009

Comments

1
pawilkes said on December 1st, 2008
5 bolts to chains
2
mcrib said on December 30th, 2008
Why are there pieces of green webbing tied to the first bolt of both the pocket routes?
3
pigsteak said on December 30th, 2008
cause I plan on getting the FA.....on gear. green is the new red.
4
mcrib said on January 6th, 2009
the route is good. needs some climbing. watch out for the tree going to the anchors.
5
ray said on April 13th, 2009
Set the grade at 5.11d.
6
krampus said on June 22nd, 2009
definitely watch it going to the anchors, my friend bounced of the tree after her foot broke. More scary than painful so long as the catch is soft.
7
pigsteak said on July 26th, 2009
the tree potential sucks. also, the nut on the first bolt needs tightened asap....the hanger could spin off any time now.
8
dustonian said on September 15th, 2009
This route is good but felt way too hard for 11d!
9
pawilkes said on November 13th, 2009
I think this is right on for 5.11d. There aren't any singular hard moves on it, just pumpy. The holds in general are really good and the texture is great
10
der uber said on October 4th, 2010
Good route. Nice pacing of dificulty and rests.
11
JR said on November 7th, 2011
Good stuff. As good as anything on the Solar Collector wall without the scene.
12
Power2U said on June 11th, 2012
Hard climb the way 5.11d should be :) This thing took me a few tries as I would always stop here on the way out from Darkside or Solar with like, "Let's just run up there and do a fun lap on a steep 5.11" Kapow! No send. Had to go back fresh... have a friend hang the draws if possible ;)
13
climb2core said on April 15th, 2013
5.not11. Definitely belongs with the hipster 5.12 crowd. Grade debates aside, this line is very good. Get on it.
14
businessprofessional said on September 30th, 2013
Great, great line. Super solid rock, awesome moves, fun all the way. The tree is a bit close, but I guess that's just extra motivation not to blow the anchors.
15
bbllaakke said on February 29th, 2016
Sustained rock climb. The holds feel better than they appear from the ground. I pitched at the top (crux) and hit the tree pretty hard. It was more startling than painful, but be careful up there.
16
craig.smith1 said on June 9th, 2016
Brian McCray route