Stomp U Out

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

Fairweather Friend


12.
+0
0 votes

Hood Luck 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley, David Linz in 2011
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the middle of the three lines on the golden wall. Climb through a dirty start to reach a ledge where the good stuff begins. Step off the ledge into some techy powerful pocket pulling with just the right amount of fun thrown in. Equipped by Jeff Neal.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light Rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (15 votes)

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Comments

1
pawilkes said on December 1st, 2008
i saw three bolts on this route. It looks pretty run out in some areas and the first bolt is probably 40 feet off the deck. there is a really neat crack system on the route, looks like a branching tree upside down
2
Jeff said on June 16th, 2009
What do you think about adding a bolt to this route? As it is there is a huge runout between #1 and #2. If you blow it, you will deck. I bet it would get climbed if another bolt were added.
3
pawilkes said on July 5th, 2009
i think this route won't get done much unless bolts are added. i'd be in favor of it if the FAs are ok w/ it
4
Jeff said on June 16th, 2011
Added bolts to this over the winter and red tagged it. I believe it's over my head. I think there's 7-8 bolts, 5.12+ (?) If the suns out, it will be hot on this route until about 2:00 or so. Open project.
5
Jeff said on June 16th, 2011
Also, replaced open shuts with chains.
6
Andrew said on July 28th, 2011
Dave and I did this route yesterday. Thank you Jeff for the bolts, and it is a really good rock climb. So far it is the best route I have climbed at the crossroads. Awesome movement on really cool two finger pockets and other cool holds. No harder than 12a.
7
pumpout2004 said on July 29th, 2011
I have notoriously been called a "rock snob", often straying away from new pieces of rock in fear of a bit of dirt and mildly crumbling holds. And while i often laugh these accusations away, they are undoubtedly true. This route, despite my greatest efforts to be a snob, is quite spectacular. It is a unique, flowing, and visually appealing route. Thanks Jeff for the bolts and I applaud Andrew on his oddly gifted eye for finding obscure projects which climb like a dream. Its all about the "Hood Luck".
8
Jeff said on July 29th, 2011
Nice job guys. 12a, man I would have given it some effort at that grade, it seemed harder to me just trying some moves while bolting it. No biggie, I could never get anyone to go out there with me anyhow ;-) Rename it what you'd like!
9
JR said on November 7th, 2011
Not a hard 12a but this thing has the goods. Great rock climb. Get on this route!!!!
10
Jeff said on July 9th, 2012
Description might be a bit confusing. Hood Luck is more like 25ft left of Oct Sky. Fairweather Friend is between Hood Luck and October Sky.
11
Willy said on January 6th, 2013
This section of the wall is great in the winter! Unique sequence in-between every bolt with a mean little sharp pocket that youre forced to make a big reach off of at the second bolt from the ledge. Thought the anchors were awkward to clip also. Convince your partner to hang the draws! Awesome route definitely in the top three for 12a's in coal bank
12
Jeff said on January 7th, 2013
Most people seem to like to clip anchors low and that can make it akward. I believe there's a jug up and left of the anchors so make another move before clipping.
13
climb2core said on January 7th, 2013
Willy, how many of the 12a's have been to the chains on at Coal Bank?
14
dustonian said on January 7th, 2013
pretty good route overall, but I had really high expectations and ended up finding it sharp and not overwhelmingly fun to climb.
15
Willy said on January 7th, 2013
Dustonian you must have sensitive girly skin I didn't think anything was sharp other than the pocket i mentioned. Also if you didn't think it was that great what other similar type routes are there that you think are bettter so I can go do them to cause I really liked this. I'll have to look for that jug at the chains when I get back to it
16
dustonian said on January 7th, 2013
don't get me wrong, it's a nice route, just a bit awkward with a ledge in the middle and some crumbly feet. similar 12a's that come to mind off hand are grippy green, supafly, golden brown, jingus khan, glory be, gluttony, plus praestantissimum and ethics police (both 11d but about as hard).
17
dustonian said on January 8th, 2013
any 11d-12b at funk rock or sky bridge, for that matter...
18
chriss said on January 8th, 2013
I loved this route. Besides the start, I don't remember any crumbles or sharp holds. Fantastic movement on edges and pockets with a long move or two thrown in between decent stances. I can see this being in the top 3 12a's at coal bank. Right up there with Golden Brown and Swallow the Hollow.
19
dustonian said on January 9th, 2013
right, forgot about STH... in there for sure too
20
Cromper said on January 28th, 2013
Stellar face climbing on a beautiful wall! A little sandy, but not too bad.
21
Willy said on January 28th, 2013
Found the jugs at the top but they are extremely inobvious and you have to make a fun blind reach to get them. It would raise the quality a little bit if everyone were forced to make this move rather than awkwardly clipping the chains from the undercling
22
ninesixfour said on May 20th, 2016
Great route. I found it much harder than any of the other 12As mentioned in the comments.
23
craig.smith1 said on June 9th, 2016
This was a Brian McCray mixed route.
24
samwisedhiman said on August 6th, 2017
was lucky enough to be visited by bees before the chains, and left a BD blk/gold draw. Will come back for it
25
afegely said on September 1st, 2017
samwisedhiman I have your draw but for some reason can't send you a PM... shoot me an email at [email protected]
26
tyler.yarbrough said on October 30th, 2017
Amazing route!!! Each bolt throws a little something unique at you as soon as you leave the no-hands. Hard for the grade though, would definitely say more like 12b (though i suck at face climbing)