Severn Bore

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

Wrong Turn


23.
+0
0 votes

Red Tag Rape 5.11c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Ray Ellington in 2009
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the route on the far right of the wave. Climb a flake system to reach the crest of the wave. Make use of a pocket and a crimp to pull the lip then fight for a stance. Move up on larger holds to another fun pockety finish. Equipped by Wes Allen.
Moves: Flake to roof
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.43 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (6 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: May 22nd, 2009

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 1st, 2008

Comments

1
pawilkes said on December 1st, 2008
I walked out there today, this thing looks pretty sweet! where is the crux?
2
Wes said on December 2nd, 2008
The crux is going over the bulge - harder then it looks! I thought it would be 5.10 or so when I first bolted it, but it is quite a bit harder then that. Pretty much 5.9+ climbing with a v3/4 boulder problem and clip in the middle. Might need to move the bolts around a bit, but hope to have it open within a couple weeks.
3
pigsteak said on April 22nd, 2009
has this thing ever dried out enough to try climbing it?
4
Wes said on April 22nd, 2009
We have been out a couple times to get on it, but it was still wet at the top. Might need at least a few dry days in a row to be doable. Might look at lowering the anchor as well, since most of the bottom stays dry.
5
Wes said on August 2nd, 2009
Someone pulled the red tag, so just going to open it and go with unknown for the fa.
6
ray said on September 14th, 2009
Cool bulge problem.
7
ynp1 said on October 22nd, 2009
This route was pretty cool to the top of the wave and after that it was a dirty crack and a lot of green... I thought the route should end on the big ledge, but the rock quality is poor there, so maybe that is why they moved it up... OK route that needs more traffic and will get better.
8
JR said on April 7th, 2010
Red Tape Rape sounds better.
9
ray said on August 13th, 2012
Sorry Wes, just realized that the "Equipped by Wes Allen" didn't make it into the guidebook or the description here.
10
pigsteak said on October 6th, 2012
Hanging the crux bulge draw is a beast.