COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Tiger Lily

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

The Friend Zone

0 votes

Laying Pipe Under the Bridge 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dan Beck, Matt Tackett in 2008
Length: 70ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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When you reach the old oil pump where you turn right to head to the main Chica Bonita Wall, instead turn to your left and bushwhack along the cliff line. After roughly 300 feet you will come to this obvious line that has an old oil pipeline coming down from the top of the cliff and going under a small natural bridge / rock arch. To the left of the pipe is a muddy flake, and to the right a clean handcrack. Take the handcrack up, traverse under the arch, and then climb up and onto the arch. Enjoy the view as you straddle the arch, then continue to follow the pipeline up easier ground to the top of the cliff.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree or walk off right
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

2.4 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (6 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 19th, 2019

Submitted by: Jackiefreesh
Date: Sep 15th, 2017


RRO said on March 2nd, 2009
heh, interesting maybe, 3 stars it is not. not your normal route........
tradotto said on December 2nd, 2012
We couldn't find this climb. I found an old oil pump and a camp site up on a flat spot to far left of the wall, is it past this?
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2012
It's just behind and to left as facing rock from said flat spot.
Wolf said on December 3rd, 2012
Anonymous is correct. The current trail to Chica wasn't there when the directions to this climb were written. Instead of taking the right turn onto the trail to Chica Bonita, continue on the road for a short bit, until you can take a right turn up an oil road. When you get to the flat spot with the old oil pump and the slabby cliff in front of you, follow the cliffline around to the left until you reach the climb.
campby said on May 5th, 2014
Fun little adventurous route. Did it because Chica main wall was crowded as hell. True height is 35-40ft. Belayed and rapped off tree.
Chiyram said on September 19th, 2017
I remember when Dr Rockso and I climbed this. Such an interesting route with a little arch you can climb on at the end.
Anonymous said on September 19th, 2017
Cool story.
Anonymous said on July 14th, 2019
Anchors added 7-13-19. Anchors had to be placed further right than optimal due to the rock face ending abruptly; so protect left of the pipe when going through the chute to keep the rope out of the crack on climber's right side of the chute while belaying your second. Works great if you follow this advice. Also, recommend rappelling off the face of the wall and not back down the chute to prevent rope from getting stuck in that same crack when pulling it. Consider yourself warned!