Tuskan Raider

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Straight Outta Campton


26.
+0
0 votes

Straight Outta Locash 5.13a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jason Forrester in 2009
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin by climbing Tuskan Raider then move right out of the large hueco to finish on Straight Outta Campton.
Linkup.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (2 votes)

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Comments

1
Rollo said on May 17th, 2009
awesome name.... i'm gonna go watch CB4 again!
2
Nick said on May 19th, 2009
So has there been a bolt added or is this just an arbitrary linkup?
3
SCIN said on May 19th, 2009
No bolts added.
4
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2009
for further glory, how about doing campton to the hueco, then tuscan to the top? you could call it "straight outta contrived linkups" 13a 5 star, must do.
5
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2009
It's actually not that contrived, if you look at the line, it follows the bolts at a perfect angle. Or you could choose not to get on it if it bothers you that much.....
6
Nick said on May 21st, 2009
Its not that there is a problem with linkups its just that I don't think they warrant a place in the guide as a seperate route. Why don't we put Fuzzy Tiger, or Mercy the Dinosaur or the billion other possible link-ups?
7
SCIN said on May 21st, 2009
I decided to stick it in here it to fish for some opinions. Are linkups included in other guidebooks at popular sport climbing destinations (ie EuroLimestoneCrag #1, #2, Rifle, etc.)? I just don't know.
8
Lander said on May 21st, 2009
I agree with Nick. This isn't a mid-route variation like Beer Belly or some climbs in the Red that share anchors or a couple bolts. It involves climbing the first half of one climb and the second half of another with ZERO extra moves. When you think about the effort that goes into equipping routes, this just seems too easy (I don't mean the climbing's easy). Maybe this type of variation can be noted in the guide but don't give it it's own name, heading etc. That's my two cents. :)
9
Anonymous said on May 22nd, 2009
Ray: yeah, they're included at a lot of those crags, but it sucks. Oh yeah, and I did the sit down traverse into Stay the Hand and finished by traversing through every anchor at roadside. everyone was really pissed that day but it was stellar. follows a really distinct angle (up and diagonal then across). can you put that in the next guide too?
10
SCIN said on May 22nd, 2009
Yea, I can see how it could get out of control. It's probably best left as a word of mouth kinda thing for bored locals.
11
chosen1 said on May 22nd, 2009
"Why don't we put Fuzzy Tiger, or Mercy the Dinosaur"....The difference between those link-ups and this one is Straight Outta and Tuskan share the same holds and a distinctive rest in a hueco;where in my opinion it is actually surprising that no one else has taken the line out from the hueco in the direction they had been traveling...up and right into Campton. I could give a shit if the route is in the guide or not, Ray simply asked me about it and he put in online. I just got on it cause it looked appealing.....something that traversing across the tops of the 5.10 wall at roadside would not be, But good comparison Someone.......
12
allah said on May 22nd, 2009
Choosen1, did this route cause he was bored at the darkside, he should just get on swingline and fall on it just like every other chuffer :)
13
heavyc said on May 22nd, 2009
hey isn't climbing supposed to be all about having fun, challenging yourself and of course scoring more spray points, straight outta locash hits on all three, I like it
14
pigsteak said on May 26th, 2009
isn't the real issue that the darkside is overbolted? if these link ups can be done with no extra pro, something tells me we have a grid chart.
15
mike_anderson said on May 26th, 2009
In the US there is not a clear consensus on linkups in guidebooks, but I would say the majority of guides don't include them. Rifle is the worst I've seen (not surprising), and IMO, it is out of hand there. Linkups tend to arise at crags that don't have much rock, so the locals try to squeeze out as many unique routes as possible in the little space they have. I.e., if I wall only has 6 direct lines, but you can add another 6 routes by linking up. The China Cave in Logan Canyon, UT is a good example of this. It is also sometimes justified if you can "create" a certain type of route that is otherwise missing from the crag (say a 12c when the other routes are all 12a or easier or 13b and harder...then it could be considered "helpful" to have a 12c option). By that logic, it would seem pretty lame to do linkups at the Red, and this route in particular doesn't seem to "fill a need" at the Dark Side. At some crags there may seem to be linkups "at first glance", but what actually happens is that a wandering route was put up first, then a direct start and direct finish were added later, so it appears that the original route was a linkup between the two later routes, but it is not actually the case. This has happened at Smith a few times (Boy Prophet/Rude Boys/Rude Femmes, Kings of Rap/Waste Case/Vicious Fish). I personally am not smart enough for linkups...I find them confusing, so I would prefer if you left them out. I'm wondering how the rating works on this route. I've been on Tuskan, but not "...Campton". How is the top half of "Straight Outta Campton"? It seems to me that if it's 12d to a no-hands, lounge chair rest in a hueco, then the top half of Campton would need to be 13a by itself for this linkup to be 13a. Is that the case?
16
allah said on May 26th, 2009
You got it, the top of campton is hard!!! and in as a developer you see some lines and not others. This route i feel should have been done a long time ago, SOOC climbs to the hueco from the right and tusken comes in from the left whos to say you can't swtch the starts and finishes of these routes since they both have a distinct cross over. Also if everyone else out there doesn't want a link up in the guide book, then go write your own guidebook and keep them out. JMO :)
17
JR said on May 26th, 2009
Allah writes guidebooks?
18
kafish2 said on May 27th, 2009
link ups... at the red... this one is so classic looking. should have been the original line maybe? who cares its fun. besides the darkside grid bolted? no more so than de Bibliothek, which means that should be our next stop. link ups galore.
19
FairiesWearBoots said on May 28th, 2009
So what is worse then, overbolting at the one of the best crags at the red.. the Darkside or overboting new crap lines at the countless dink crags throughout Muir (de bibliothek) and Sore Heel? Plus, no one is adding bolts to this new climb.. whats whats with the commotion?
20
pigsteak said on May 28th, 2009
hey fairy, I think you are missing the question. the question was if it deserved its own submission as a "route"....btw, i'd say over bolting a classic crag like darkside would be way worse....do you think people would be pissed if we started putting random bolts at the Lode to link climbs?
21
FairiesWearBoots said on May 28th, 2009
Actually you mentioned overbolting the Darkside in the first place... and to answer the real question then hell yes it deserves its own place as a route because its an obvious line that was overlooked when the crag was first developed. Furthermore, who added bolts in this case? And yes, of course people would be pissed if we added bolts to climbs at the Lode..because some people have nothing better to do than to complain about other people having fun with rock climbing.
22
chosen1 said on May 28th, 2009
DANG! All I did wanted to do was something different at a crag I was getting burnt out on and look at all this drama. So sad.
23
512OW said on May 28th, 2009
Shit chosen1, see what you've caused by having some fun? Rockclimbing is a serious endeavor with rulebooks and guidelines. You've stepped outside the boundaries of "serious" and entertained your need for "fun". How fucking dare you???? I demand that you downclimb the route and unsend it so that this may never happen again.
24
chosen1 said on May 28th, 2009
I demand that you, O-dub, write a rap song about link-ups in the red...so the whole community will know they are wrong and shunned at the red river gorge.
25
512OW said on May 28th, 2009
But then what if little kids start doin link ups while they wear their pants at their ankles and their hats cocked to the side? Whats bad is cool, ya know? Little fuckin gangsters'll bring their loud ass ipod radios to the crag and blast that terrible Rick Ross shit while their linkin up everything in sight. NO chosen1. This is your fight. I won't contribute to the gangsterizing of the youth of America. OH the shame!
26
RRO said on May 28th, 2009
seriously, turn off the computer, walk away. you all need meds.....rock climbing is sooo 2002.
27
512OW said on May 29th, 2009
True, it is. And Laser Tag is so 1992. BURN!
28
Anonymous said on May 29th, 2009
about the same time white rappers went out of vogue.
29
JR said on May 29th, 2009
Eminem' Relapse album: "the No. 1 slot on the Billboard 200. With 608,000 sold in its first week, nets the biggest sales week of the year for any album"
30
RRO said on May 29th, 2009
white rappers actually became endangered the first year they were discovered. this was in 81. a few still survive solely on consuming hardened brains of bored workers he finds wasting brain cells arguing about rock climbing , voyers of youtube to scared to make their own life moments . most likely incest has played a large role in the rappers development, approach with caution. you can spot them from their out of date style and candy machine bling. you have been warned...
31
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2009
VERY scarey RRO knows so much about the history of white rappers....is he really vanilla ice on a second career?
32
Wes said on May 29th, 2009
As far as white rappers go, I was always kinda partial to 3rd bass - "pop goes the weasel" baseball bats and all. Though I'm the man by Anthrax was was also pretty cool.
33
Barnacle Ben said on May 29th, 2009
White rap died when Mike Patton stopped rapping.
34
512OW said on May 29th, 2009
Definitely agree about 3rd Bass. Anybody remember when Kid Rock was just a rapper? And yes, RRO is a closet rapper. He PM's me for tips all the time...
35
jefflehmkuhl said on May 31st, 2009
really??? If it seems like an obvious line, do it. If it doesn't, don't. Does it deserve a place in the guide??? Who cares, let the person who writes the guide decide.
36
rustyvasectomy said on June 12th, 2009
Gaydub hampton, its totaly cool to climb linkups. Go for it! But don't put that shit in the guide, thats so lame!
37
512OW said on June 12th, 2009
Good job understanding, rusty. Glad you're smarter than you seem in your posts.
38
kafish2 said on September 27th, 2010
I love this route, straight gangsta. Best boulder problem on the wall straight into the best of the top of the routes. Why only 3 stars? This is the KING LINE
39
said on September 28th, 2010
did Campton Raider today.....basically the opposite of this route.......just kidding.,....but seriously...good work Jason, keep crushing and having fun.....cause thats what its about!!!
40
kafish2 said on September 28th, 2010
sorry dru, I am gunning for that FA and it will not be named Campton Raider... I will name it Straight outta Tuscany! The race is on sir.
41
Dmack said on April 22nd, 2019
Can we get the other way added, Campton into Tuscan. I agree with Kyle's name for it. I want the points. Thanks