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The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

Everything That Rises Must Converge

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The Stranger 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Josh LaMar (L.J.), Josh Thurston in 2009
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route left of The Short Happy Life. Boulder through a short section of slopey textured rock to reach a set of good sidepulls. Clip the second bolt then bust through pockets and pinches to reach the mossy but easier upper section.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

3.37 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (22 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 5th, 2010


Lil Josh said on May 31st, 2009
:) Really fun route. Thanks for cleaning and bolting it Thurston.
goodguy said on May 31st, 2009
L.J. is my hero! He crushed this thing after almost no sleep and only 10mins. between burns. This route probably has the best moves on the wall.
512OW said on June 29th, 2009
Tough little boulder problem. Cool bottom moves. Good work to both Joshes....
Anonymous said on August 18th, 2009
two very similar cruxes (crimps + bulge surmounting) and then a massive rest to a short section of 5.9 to the chains. very cool climbing. once it cleans up it'll be one of the best on an already awesome wall.
camhead said on October 6th, 2009
Cool route, at least by the time I got on it, it had cleaned up to the point that it felt a bit more quality than just two stars.
JR said on October 7th, 2009
How many routes on this wall have claimed to be 12a? Poop in the Park might be a number grade harder than this route. This is the new contender for easiest 12a in Muir. Better hurry up number chasers this thing ain't gonna last.
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2009
looks like 2 out of 18 claim to be 12s.
JR said on October 7th, 2009
A bit ambiguous I guess. I meant, how many routes on this wall claimed to be 12a and subsequently have been downrated? Right now, the Strangers consensus is 11d but not many people have weighted in.
kek-san said on October 8th, 2009
Cheater stump is out.
Brentucky said on December 7th, 2009
Well, after climbing this in perfect wintry conditions and being spit off 4 times straight b/c I thought it looked the "easiest" of the ones in the sun I was only gonna be pissed at myself if I got home and saw it was rated 11b or 11c. It makes me feel much better to know that it was a 5.12a handing me my ass (11d woulda been acceptable too). I agree it felt like a soft 12a, but that seems about right to me being pretty new to the grade and all. Pretty cool moves and good rock regardless, more than 2 stars.
rdo'c said on December 7th, 2009
Bullshit. Cheater stump is way in!
chriss said on March 22nd, 2010
Softest 12a I have been on anywhere (almost laughable). That being said, super fun climbing, one of my new favorite 11 b/c's. I thought that this and the one to the left had the best movement on the wall.
JR said on March 22nd, 2010
Thank you Chriss! LOL!
pawilkes said on March 30th, 2010
this is 12a like Supafly is 12b. a couple weird moves but nothing too bad and pretty short. if the last bolt looks a little wet, it is still climbable.
said on April 4th, 2010
Awesome Route!!!!!!!!!!!
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2012
No longer mossy up top- solid rock and fun movement.
dustonian said on March 24th, 2013
Way better than it looks, with a killer boulder problem in the middle. Felt rock-solid at its new 11+ grade, but then power-endurance just ain't my thang.