Cold Hard Bitch

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Hot Drama Teacher


10.
+0
0 votes

Hellava Caucasian 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Blake Bowling in 2009
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next bolted line right of The Dude Abides. Bouldery with rests. Could use another bolt at the top.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
runout (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.44 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (12 votes)

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Comments

1
joe leismer said on June 11th, 2009
If this is the climb between Dude Abides and Hot Drama Teacher, a major hold broke just over the roof. Climb through a roof to a shallow pockety dihedral to a dirty/mossy finish.
2
der uber said on August 10th, 2009
very very dirty top. the big platey holds are sketch up there. the bottom was good, it would be nice to get this cleaned up and a bolt added up there.
3
Climbingrocks said on November 16th, 2009
What is the deal with that run-out???? Its like 25 ft with a monster tree behind to impaled by!! kept going up and down looking for another bolt. Sweet roof move though.
4
rockman said on September 8th, 2010
Name is Hellava Caucasian Grade is 11c Going to finished adding the (last) bolt soon for the people who clip those sort of things.
5
One-Fall said on September 8th, 2010
If you like dynamics, or LONG static moves, this is your line.
6
dustonian said on September 9th, 2010
This is a fun route! I didn't think the run at the top was too bad... the climbing is easy and it gives the experience some character IMO.
7
der uber said on September 9th, 2010
Thanks a lot for putting in the extra bolt. I'll check it out again, and I hope it gets more traffic and cleans up.
8
climb2core said on September 19th, 2011
As of 9/18/11 there is still approximately a 20 ft. run to the chains on somewhat chossy/sandy/mossy rock. Falling from near the chains has injury potential with a tree behind you if you push off too hard and lots of rock to skip down if you don't push off hard enough.
9
Anonymous said on September 19th, 2011
if you can climb the crux, you should be ok to climb the 5.4 to the top. long fall but nothing to hit with proper belay
10
dustonian said on September 19th, 2011
The runout is casual, but when was this downgraded from 12a? Maybe 11d as a happy medium.
11
climb2core said on September 19th, 2011
I think everyone needs to decide for themselves if the run out is casual. Dustin has probably done hundreds of routes that 90% of 5.12 sport climbers would sketch on and bail. Anyways, It is definitely atypical of current bolting standards and I think the description of the route should at the very least accurately describe the run out. I would love to see "anonymous" climb to with in 5 ft of the chains and go for that whip (with nothing to worry about but a long fall). Lastly, I think the climb is now legit 5.12 as several crux holds at the roof have broken. I watched 3 5.12 climbers get shut down at the crux. I understand rock climbing is dangerous and everyone needs to evaluate the risks for themselves... but I think it is helpful if you can do that from the ground reading a guidebook review vs while on route contemplating a potential 40-50 ft whipper.
12
dustonian said on September 19th, 2011
agreed, as long as we're snapshackling there may as well be a bolt there. I think Blake just got busy bolting other stuff.
13
rockman said on September 20th, 2011
heh. heard about the boys getting shut down... if I hadnt gotten busy and (finished) adding the bolt, we wouldnt have had this awesome story from the crew. Plans are still to add a bolt when I get a chance, the start of the hole is already there, but we bolted 4 or five lines that day.
14
pigsteak said on January 1st, 2012
ok, I got shut down...the moves are superb, but by gawd can someone tell me the beta going over that roof. I matched on the jug out left that has broken, got a left foot on the lip, and bumped left hand to the slopey knob....then what? closer to 12c than 11c after blowing a gasket.
15
dustonian said on January 1st, 2012
all I remember is some weird jacked-up mantel-y kinda thing
16
pigsteak said on January 1st, 2012
yeah, that's what I was eye-ing, but man did it seem super hard.
17
dustonian said on January 1st, 2012
I also recall emitting a highly comical noise on that move
18
Rob Smith said on June 19th, 2012
At least 12a. Watched a certain very strong climber almost get shutdown at the roof crux.
19
pumpout2004 said on December 3rd, 2017
This route still lacks a bolt, and to be honest I've climbed a lot of mediocre routes around here for fun and this was the first time I found myself angry as I realized mid route that I would be forced to move far above my last bolt into a needless danger zone. Easy climbing sure, but unnecessary danger on a chossy 2 star route at an easier cliff. Bleh.
20
Spagel said on April 13th, 2019
Not that anyone cares, but that roof move is effing wicked. I cannot see this going at 12a.... That move nearly shut me down completely (blah blah weak sauce blah). Perhaps a hold broke? I felt like after a really cool bouldery start and a neat roof, that move pushed the damn thing to hard 12b or easy 12c. Unless I'm missing some critical beta it is a hard mantle move with a low toe hook to hold you in and grab the jug. Crazy. Also, as of 4/12/19, there is a 20+ foot runnout at the top. Not too big a deal, but a little heady since it's still pretty chossy.
21
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2019
Spagel, I climbed this a year ago. Your description is completely accurate. Nothing broke dude. I still don't think it is harder than 12a. The crux is very bouldery, but you do get some great rests. The top section is runout, but easy. I think with the difficulty and style of bolting, it is on par with some old school NRG 12a's.
22
Spagel said on April 13th, 2019
Anonymous 21, I hear what you're saying, but given the bottom sequence and the move to get out to that jug, I just disagree that it's 12a. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
23
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2019
You can grade it whatever you want, but it won’t change the difficulty.
24
Cocoapuffs1000 said on April 14th, 2019
Can confirm a hold broke that made the roof much harder, l was there when it happened. See the first comment.
25
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2019
Will the "nothing broke" person admit they were wrong? If yes, I have hope for humanity. If not, more evidence that we are not worth saving.